14 Vintage Rolex References I Fell In Love With In 2022
By Charlie Dunne
2022 will forever be the year I fell in love with vintage Rolex. Working at Wind Vintage, the majority of our inventory consists of watches from The Crown. Don’t let that fool you into thinking we don’t care about the endless other manufacturers! However, the truth of the matter is that Rolex remains the most desirable watch brand, and until 2022 I couldn’t quite relate to the brand. Over the past few months, I spent countless hours holding and admiring vintage Rolex models which ultimately opened my eyes to why the brand is so beloved by watch collectors. These are 14 vintage Rolex references I fell in love with in 2022.
1) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 1018
It’s no secret by now that I am obsessed with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 1018. Holding the above example in Eric’s office a few months back was the first time I felt passionate about adding a Rolex to my collection. While I certainly wasn’t the first to take notice of the oversized OP, I was compelled to write a deep dive on the model ‘Collector's Guide: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 1018’. I adore its minimalism, and would spend so much time over the summer swimming in the pool wearing it. Yes, I swam in my vintage Rolex.
2) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 6614
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6614 is the predecessor reference to the reference 1018. Like my 1018, the case has wonderful proportions at 36mm in diameter, although the case back is slightly less raised and is only 11mm thick. While admiring this watch in person, I began to love the applied “ROLEX” branding and this an element that I now enjoy seeing on many 1950s models.
3) Rolex Datejust “Tapestry Dial” Reference 16200
While certainly on the younger side for the list, this 1997 Rolex Datejust reference 16200 with “tapestry” dial was a remarkable watch I encountered this summer. It was in “new old stock” condition and just such a fun timepiece to appreciate for the few weeks we had with in the office. It ended up being offered within our first collaboration with MR PORTER and would go on to be featured in an awesome photo shoot for Mr Porter.
4) Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph Reference 16013
I have to admit, I am not quite there yet when it comes to two-tone watches. Although, there are always exceptions when you come across a spectacular watch. Upon holding this Turn-O-Graph Datejust reference 16013, my jaw about dropped to the floor. The texture of the bezel was so impressive and ornate. I had never noticed anything this brilliant on a Rolex Datejust before. Complimented by the unpolished steel case, it captured such a raw, yet elegant look.
5) Rolex Oyster Reference 6082
I love Stern Frères dials, and am particularly fascinated when I see them on non-Patek Philippe timepieces. This Oyster reference 6082 had everything one could desire within an atypical Rolex. The dial had developed a beautiful patina which complemented the gold hour markers reminiscent of those found on the “Padellone” reference 8171. The feuille hands add a touch of elegance, while the crisp case and bezel make for a dream like visual on the wrist. On top of all this, I was able to play a role in getting it on the wrist of a friend. I can’t wait to see this one again.
6) Rolex Ladies Dress Watch
Delicate ladies’ watches certainly are not the most popular genre when we are talking about vintage Rolex watches. However, I would argue examples like the above Rolex Precision are some of the most fascinating timepieces to encounter. This particular watch features the insanely rare “star” hour markers which are highly desirable on any Rolex watch and would command an insane premium otherwise. For the person who purchased this timepiece, I feel as though they have one of the most incredible vintage Rolex dress watches out there.
7) Rolex Air-King Reference 14000
Over the summer I was so impressed with this specific Air-King reference 14000 due to its incredible sharp case and pristine dial. As far as Air-Kings go, I have to say this is the most wearable reference due to the longer lugs and it is certainly one of my favorite time-only Oyster Perpetuals. This example would be purchased by my friend and Rowing Blazers Co-Founder David Rosenzweig. On my most recent trip to New York, we crossed paths for dinner and it was so much fun to see him wearing it with his HOYAS hoodie.
8) Rolex Lapis Lazuli Day-Date Reference 18038
While I am more partial to steel Rolex watches, this Day-Date reference 18038 with a lapis lazuli dial is just a remarkable timepiece. The contrast from gold to a rich blue stone dial was absolutely mind-blowing in person. If I were to ever pursue a more blingy watch, this Day-Date would certainly be a contender as it was just a showstopper. Months after it left Wind Vintage HQ, I still think about it.
9) Rolex Datejust "Linen Dial" Reference 16014
This white-linen dial Datejust was such a fantastic watch that when I opened the package it came in I stopped what I was doing to show it to Eric. We marveled over it for quite a while before we sadly settled on it being another one we couldn’t keep. Within the listing, I jokingly added that “is insanely difficult to find these in this condition, and as a result I am tempted to give this watch to Charlie Dunne”. Hilariously, a number of people reached out trying to get more context on this note.
10) Rolex Oysterdate Precision Reference 6694
One morning, I received an email from a man looking for a timepiece for his wedding anniversary. His wife had expressed an interest to purchase a watch for him for their 10th year together. Initially interested in a Rolex Zephyr, he pivoted to this incredible Oysterdate Precision reference 6694. Over the past year, there have been many instances in which I sold a vintage watch with a sentimental component. This one in particular was an incredible honor to be involved in, and the collector was so thrilled with the smaller dimensions that he would change direction in his collection towards vintage Rolex watches after spending a few weeks with the Oysterdate!
11) Rolex Datejust Reference 1603 with Blue “Mosaic” Dial
Just around the time of the 2022 Original Miami Beach Antique Show, I saw this Rolex Datejust reference 1603 with an aged blue “mosaic” or “shantung” dial and I was blown away. The contrast between the engine-turned bezel and textured dial was just incredible. Certain details can totally make a vintage watch stand out. I can’t imagine I will see another mosaic dial like this, because the hints of orange and brown are just too beautiful on this unique example.
12 & 13) Rolex King & Queen Midas Set Reference 4315 & 4313
Earlier in the year, we came across a pair of watches that were so wonderful - a Rolex King Midas reference 4315 & Queen Midas reference 4313. Most King and Queen Midas watches were produced in yellow gold, and very few in white gold. The set was purchased new in the 1970s by a husband and wife, who had them engraved on the case back with each other’s names. Eric would emphasize the King Midas would sell by itself quickly, but to separate the pair felt heartbreaking. He was determined that the watches would remain together. Within a few weeks, they went to a very happy couple that is undoubtlebly the coolest watch couple in their town.
14) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date "1985 Honda Bowl" Reference 15000
One of most outstanding Rolex watches that came through the office was certainly the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date "1985 Honda Bowl" reference 15000. The watch was in “like new” condition and just jaw dropping when you put it on your wrist. The dial had such a bold impression on people that to this day we still have people asking about the watch. Out of all the Rolex Dates I have seen, this one will always be embedded in my mind.