A Vintage Longines Sei Tacche Reference 5697 Retailed by Türler

Words & Photos by Charlie Dunne

At the time of publishing this, Eric Wind may be learning that I borrowed this vintage Longines for a slightly different reason than the one I presented to him on last Friday evening. “Eric, cool if I take this Türler-signed Longines for the weekend? I’ll add a page listing for it!”. I immediately received a response that some of you who frequently text him may recognize as the automated reply “Definitely!” (Note: “Absolutely” is another variation.).

Well, I kept my word and added the listing page which is linked here. However, I thought it might be more interesting to expand upon my obsession for these time-only Longines in a long-form article dedicated to this particular double-signed reference 5697.

A Longines reference 5697 with a double-signed Türler dial.

A Longines reference 5697 with a double-signed Türler dial.

It’s no secret by now that I’m in love with Longines timepieces. The Saint-Imier manufacturer is not only among the most important names in watchmaking, but it’s an absolute gold mine for collectors. The wide range of timepieces have a deservingly strong following. These include everything from chronographs, divers, military watches, complications, and timepieces which served to expand aviation and avigation. The history is immensely rich. While these details of Longines’ heritage are underestimated and less obvious to many watch enthusiast on a broader level, those with an interest for a brand’s achievements can attest to Longines being on the top of the totem pole. The name will always carry respect amongst collectors, and also enthrall those ignorant to the manufacturer’s merit.

Like the pair of Longines reference 5356, the reference 5697 features even numerals (albeit luminous instead of applied). In addition, the dial features subtle circular-luminous hour markers which can be seen in various dials throughout the 1940s and 1950. On the outskirts of the dial is a great painted track indicating the 60 seconds/minutes and numerals for every 5-minute demarcation. The design is often found in 1940s chronographs and models like the Vulcain Crickets, but when they are featured in a time-only model it just gives the watch an extra measure of confidence.

The dial is signed by one of my favorite retailers: Türler. The prestigious retailer’s origin began in 1883 when the founders César Alexander Türler and Jean Henri Türler opened up shop in Biel, Switzerland. Just a few months, back I was gifted a special Atmos clock with the now Zurich-based watch boutique by Wind which will be subject for a Wind Vintage article in the future. While my obsession with the historic watch seller certainly has a fair amount to do with their close ties to Jaeger-LeCoultre, seeing an example with another manufacturer I’m passionate about is equally as exciting.

Hugo Laubi (1888-1959), advertising poster for Türler Watches and Jewelry, circa 1960. Image credit: Live Auctioneers.

Longines reference 3501 (35.5mm “Sei Tacche”) sold for $6,700. Image credit: Phillips.

Longines reference 5483 featured in John Goldberger’s ‘Longines Legendary Watches’ (35mm “Sei Tacche”) sold for $43,000. Image credit: Phillips.

When it comes to these models, watch collectors have occasionally spent a fair amount at auction for certain examples. In the more high-profile sales, a similar 35.5mm reference 3501 “Sei Tacche” sold for the $6,700. When the watch has more important provenance, such as the Longines reference 5483 featured in John Goldberger’s ‘Longines Legendary Watches’ book, the prices can become more impressive. That specific example sold for $43,000. While there are a variety of dial variants in the “Tre Tacche” and “Sei Tacche” an example featuring Arabic numerals, the rectangle at 6 o’clock, and the upside down triangle at 12 o’clock, it’s understandable that it can pull at emotions a bit more. Interestingly, that very watch featured in John Goldberger’s ‘Longines Legendary Watches’ includes primary source material with an old photograph of a reference reference 5483 which features the same dial found on the present reference 5697!

A Longines “Sei Tacche” reference 5532 originally invoiced on November 23, 1944 to Wirth, the Longines agent for Switzerland

My initial attraction to this watch reminded me of the handful of 33mm-35mm Longines that have come through Wind Vintage over the past two years. Among those were a Tre Tacche that belonged to Robert George Buckingham of the Royal Canadian Navy Volunteer Reserve who wore his watch during WWII. Also, was the reference 5403 “Sei Tacche” with that same special dial configuration as the 5483 which I totally missed the boat on. While Longines has always been a brand that has appealed to collectors, these models are becoming particularly admired for their classic design and value.

“A small Longines "Tre Tacche" early water-resistant watch with stepped bezel today that looks to have seen better days, but it has also likely seen worse ones - June 6, 1944 for one. Based on the engraving on the back - "R. G. BUCKINGHAM / R.C.N.V.R / JAN. 1-41" - it appears it was owned by Robert George Buckingham of the Royal Canadian Navy Volunteer Reserve.

“A Longines reference 5403 “Sei Tacche” (meaning water-resistant case with 6 notches on the back for opening) that was invoiced on 18 September 1945 to the company Wirth, which was at that time the Longines agent for Switzerland. This is a rare and special dial configuration shared with a larger “Sei Tacche” reference 5483 that sold for big money at auction previously (40,000 CHF). This watch looks like it has some stories to tell and happily retains an unpolished case“

A vintage Longines reference 6111-2 seen at The Original Miami Beach Antique Show from 2023.

The reference 5697 measures 33.5mm in diameter, but its straight lugs give off a bit more of a bold look on the wrist at 42mm lug-to-lug. The lugs are not overly thick, but they’re wide enough to broaden out the look and have a width of 18mm. With the large crown. it certainly helps add presence on the wrist. Per the height, 10.5mm including the crystal. Another great attribute, the drilled lugs add for a perfect feature in a mid-century screw back Longines. The ref. 5697 has a case back with six notches, falling into the classification of a “Sei Tacche” (three being “Tre Tacche”). The case back also features the case number “314” aligning with the number found on bottom of the right lug, giving assurance that the case back belonged to the case body.

As with the pair of Andermatt Longines Military Games reference 5356 models Eric found last year, the watch was invoiced through the Swiss agent Wirth. The invoice of this example dates to 3/15/1947.

According to the Extract from The Archives, the reference 5697 is powered by the calibre 27M ( a 12 ligne, or 27mm diameter, manual-wind movement operating a 18,000 vibrations per hour). However, after comparing several other calibre 27M examples, I consistently noticed watches with subsidiary seconds. It was then that I appealed to the Longines collectors I’m in contact with. I expressed an interest whether the 27M was both subsidiary seconds and sweep seconds, whether it may have been misidentified (perhaps mistaken for a Cal. 12.68ZS), or whether the occasional mentions of a “calibre 27MS” I encountered would designate the movement as sweep seconds. After clarification, I would be sent the excerpts from Longines literature which helped clarify that it was in fact the calibre 27MS.

Image credit: watchguy.co.uk

“Yes, the “S” affix denotes the central second version” chimed in my new anonymous Longines bestie (who could only be identified by his WhatsApp contact name ⏱️). “However, to add to the confusion, some of the without “S” movements were actually delivered as central second watches (especially early ones). It seems the S was only rigorously applied later (past 50s).”

With a bit of curiosity on the foreign looking shock-absorbing system, I was then informed it was the Simrex shock absorber which was seen on the Longines I had become so attached to.

Images courtesy of vintagelongines.com

A similar model featured in ‘Longines Legendary Watch’ catalog by Antiquorum 1994.

 

Türler advertisement featuring a similar style watch. Image credit: Der Bund, Volume 98, Number 138, 24 March 1947

Adding additional charm, the watch also features a case back engraving which I fell in love with at first sight. While a retailer signature will get more attention, I often think the engravings are a more romantic and interesting detail. Particularly when the require a bit of digging to understand the backstory!

“IN DANKBARER ANERKENNUNG. TREUER DIENSTLEISTUNG 25 JAHRE. GERBER & CO. A.G.”

“In grateful recognition of loyal service 25 years of Gerber & Co. A.G.“

Searching through archived newspapers, I would learn Gerber was a Zurich-based tobacco company, and this watch was given to an employee commemorating 25 years of service. Additional searches would lead to an Austrian cigarette collector’s website which featured a variety of products from Gerber.

California Lights-Switzerland late 1970's Producer Gerber & Cie. Image credit: zigzam

Boston American Blend Switzerland 1960's Producer Gerber & Co. Ltd. Image credit: zigzam

Le Mans Corsée Filter Switzerland 1970's 20 pieces with Filter in Soft Pack Producer Gerber & Cie. Image credit: zigzam

Reval Switzerland 1970's Producer Gerber & Cie. Image credit: zigzam

 

To summarize the watch, it is a fantastic timepiece that I was very much considering for my personal collection. Although I had decided it was not the best time to be purchasing another watch (despite having the Longines love at first sight) I felt compelled to write about it beyond our watch listing. With a story of being earned and added measure of having a double-signed dial, it is most definitely an example that will have a lucky collector excited each time they put it on their wrist. Watches like these are just a wonderful experience to write about and pleasure to offer on Wind Vintage. If you have an interest in this timepiece, or watches like it please feel welcome to reach out to charles.dunne@windvintage.com.

 
charlie dunne