What's Selling Here - July 12, 2023

By Charlie Dunne

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Reference 5065/1A-010 Unpolished Full Set

The Patek Philippe reference 5065A is one of the great contemporary sports watches. At 38mm in diameter, it has fantastic proportions that can appeal to both vintage and modern enthusiasts. This example has a fantastic case which remains unpolished. The hands and dial feature tritium lume which has a nice warm color. According to the Certificate of Origin, it was sold in 2000.

It is powered by the calibre 315 SC and is on view through its exhibition caseback.

The watch comes full set with box, the Certificate of Origin, corresponding papers and a steel Aquanaut bracelet. For those looking for an outstanding Aquanaut, you cannot go wrong with this one!

Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 Unpolished

The Rolex GMT-Master was originally designed for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s and continues to be a flagship model for Rolex to this day. The reference 1675 was introduced in 1959 and remained in production until 1980.

This is a spectacular 1675 featuring a 2.9M serial number, dating to circa 1972. The case is unpolished and in fantastic condition. It is paired on a Rolex Oyster folded link 7836 bracelet with 380 end links which are correct. The aluminum bezel insert is extremely attractive with a petrol blue and faded red. The MK II dial has super attractive lume which has developed into a warm yellow.

We do not know the service history. It was recently regulated and is running great. It does not come with box and papers. It recently passed a 5 bar water resistance test.

To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master you can watch the ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and corresponding article I produced

Rolex Root Beer GMT-Master Reference 16753 w/ Box and Hang Tag

This Rolex “Root Beer” GMT-Master reference 16753 is an awesome model which has become more appreciated by collectors in recent years. This example dates to circa 1982 with a 7.2M serial. The case is polished. It features a D38 TrueDome crystal. It was just serviced by Dr. Greg Petronzi (@truepatina), is running great and comes with Dr. P’s service papers! It recently passed a 5 bar water test.

To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master you can watch my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and corresponding article.

It comes with box, GMT booklet, and hang tag.

Patek Philippe Reference 5980/1R-001 Unpolished Full Set

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is one of the most iconic designs from Gérald Charles Genta. This 18K rose gold example is the reference 5980R, a remarkable flyback chronograph with date. The watch is powered by the calibre CH 28‑520 C. The case is unpolished and measures 40.5mm. It was worn seldomly and is in fantastic condition.

The watch comes full set with box and papers. The date on the Certificate of Origin is from May 2013.

Porsche Design By IWC Ocean

This is a very cool Porsche Design By IWC Ocean. The Porsche Design By IWC has been having a moment over the past few years. The case is titanium and measures 34mm in diameter. We believe the watch is powered by the calibre 3755. The case is in great shape.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. For those who are interested in a very cool and uncommon watch, this is a great option at $1,900!

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Aventurine Dial Reference J005000570

This Jaquet Droz is a beautiful Petite Heure Minute with an absolutely stunning aventurine dial. The case is 35mm and is unpolished. The watch is powered by the automatic calibre 2653.

The watch does not come with box and papers.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Reference E 851 with Extract Unpolished

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox is one of the most important alarm wristwatch models alongside the Vulcain Cricket. The reference E 851 is a rare and early model under their water-resistant cases. This particular example dates to circa 1956. The case is unpolished and features twisted lugs. It measures 35mm in diameter, but the watch wears surprisingly large due to its 44mm length lug-to-lug length.

The non-luminous dial features some marks on the surface and the interior rotating alarm disc is unusual because it says “Wrist Alarm” and this is typically seen on the American-market Memovox watches. It is possible that it been swapped during a service, however it is period correct and the blue paint matches the blue triangles on the dial, so it is possibly original. The hour markers and hands are rose gold, provident a striking appearance on the wrist. The crowns are signed JL for Jaeger-LeCoultre and are the correct size, but possibly later. The calibre P814 movement was just serviced and the alarm sounds is wonderful.

If the dial was perfect, we would value it around $5,000 or more, but we have priced it attractively.

This watch does not come with box and papers, but does include a Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confirming production of 1956.

Rolex Non-Luminous Datejust Reference 1601 in 18k YG Unpolished

I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have. This 1601 is no exception. The watch dates to circa 1978 and features a 5.12M serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter and is paired on a very nice Jubilee from 1971. The bracelet is quite firm and has little stretch.

The watch is in excellent condition with an unpolished case. We do not know the service history, but it is running great. It does not come with box or papers. It just passed a 3 bar water test.

Rolex Grey Dial Datejust Reference 16030

This watch dates to circa 1979 and features a 6.17M serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter and is paired on a very nice Jubilee from 1971. The bracelet is in good condition and not overly stretched.

The case has been lightly polished. It features an extremely attractive grey dial.

We do not know the service history, but it is running great. It just passed a 5 bar water-resistance test. It does not come with box or papers.

Rolex Black Dial Gilt Reference 1002

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 1002 is a very cool example with a gilt dial. The watch dates to circa 1961. The case measures 36mm in diameter. It has been lightly polished, but is strong. It has been paired on a later stretch rivet GF bracelet by Rolex dating to 1967. The bracelet is very firm and wears great!

We do not know the service history, but it is running great. It just passed a 3 bar water-resistance test. It does not come with box or papers.

Rolex Floating Big Red Daytona Reference 6265 w/ Service Receipt

I’m excited to offer another awesome Rolex Daytona reference 6265. This particular example features the earlier floating “Big Red” dial which commands attention upon first glance. This watch is from circa 1978, with a serial number in the 5.5 million range.

The case is lightly polished, but has maintained a strong form. It features a replacement crown. The case measures 37mm in diameter. It is paired on a 78350 Rolex bracelet. The movement is a manual wind calibre 727 made by Valjoux.

The watch does not come with box and papers. It comes with a service receipt from Rolex.

Rolex Explorer I Reference 1016 R Serial Unpolished

Introduced in 1960 an icon was born in the Rolex Explorer reference 1016. The 1016 was produced until circa 1989. This example features an R serial dating it to circa 1987-1988. The case is unpolished and measures 36mm in diameter (43mm lug-to-lug). The lume is pale which is found in models from the mid-late 1980s. It is paired on a Rolex 78360 bracelet with 580 end links.

The ref. 1016 marked the first Explorer with “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" printed on the dial. It is one of the most desired timepieces and for great reason. The 1016 is one of the purest expressions of watch design and for this reason that I am probably asked for vintage Explorer reference 1016s more than any other watch.

To learn more about the history and evolution of the Rolex Explorer I, you can see my video and corresponding article Reference Points A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history and is running great. It features a D22 TrueDome crystal. It has just passed a 3 bar water resistance test.

Patek Philippe Reference 5522-001 Unpolished Full Set

The Patek Philippe Reference 5522 is a very cool oversized model with incredible luminous numerals. The stainless steel case is unpolished and measures 42mm in diameter and only 9mm thin! The watch is powered by the beautiful calibre 324 S.

It dates to 2017. There were only 600 examples produced. The watch comes with box and papers.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Moonphase Reference 109.032 Full Set Unpolished

This A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 reference 109.032 dates to circa 2005. It has beautiful alpha hands and a remarkable moonphase. The 18K yellow gold case is unpolished and measures 38.5mm in diameter (47.5mm lug-to-lug).

It comes full set with box and papers. We do not know the service history. The watch is running great.

TUDOR Tropical Submariner Reference 7928

This TUDOR Submariner reference 7928 has a very attractive tropical brown dial with warm lume. The case production dates to circa 1960. It features the pointed crown guards, has the correct “Long 5” bezel insert and crown. It has been lightly polished, but is very nice on the wrist. It is paired on a period correct C&I stretch bracelet made for Rolex.

The watch does not have box or papers. It is powered by the automatic caliber 390 and is 40mm in diameter. It passed a 5 bar water test just recently.

Rolex Explorer II Reference 216270 Box + Service Card

This Rolex Explorer II reference 216270 is a well worn example. The case measures 43mm in diameter (and 50.5mm lug-to-lug). The case has a good amount of scratches, but remains unpolished.

This watch comes with a box and service papers. We do not know the production date, but it was serviced by Rolex in 2021!

TUDOR Glossy Submariner Reference 7928

This TUDOR Submariner reference 7928 has a very attractive tropical brown dial with warm lume. The case production dates to the 4th quarter of 1966. It features the rounded crown guards, has the correct “Long 5” bezel insert and crown. It has been lightly polished, but is very nice on the wrist. This is a very rare model with the glossy dial which was only in the 4th quarter of 1966 with an error in that is says VI 66 instead of IV 66.. It is paired on a period correct C&I non-stretch bracelet made for Rolex.The watch does not have box or papers. It is powered by the automatic caliber 390 and is 40mm in diameter. It passed a 5 bar water test just recently.

Heuer Carrera Inverse Panda Reference 7753 NST

The Heuer Carrera is one of the legendary chronograph designs of the 20th century. Featuring stark angled lugs that were a product of the architecture of the 1960s. You can read more about the origins of the Carrera in the in-depth article that I wrote back in 2013.

This Carrera dates to the 1960s . It features a very rare “inverse panda” dial which was made by Singer. The hands and dial have a very warm color lume. The watch is powered by the manual-wind Valjoux calibre 72. The case is lightly polished. Overall, it is a super cool and attractive watch at a great value.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great!

TAG Heuer x The Rake & Revolution Blue Dreamer Carrera Full Set Unpolished

Released in February of 2018, the TAG Heuer x The Rake & Revolution "Blue Dreamer" Carrera marked another highly successful collaboration from the brand with a publisher. Inspired by the HODINKEE x Tag Heuer Skipperera, Wei Koh provides context behind the collaboration:

“While being interviewed by my friend Ben Clymer for Talking Watches on his seminal website Hodinkee, I openly admitted that I was profoundly inspired by his amazing Skipper watch created in collaboration with TAG Heuer. And that was absolutely true. I am of the firm belief that Ben’s Skipper and my buddy Raynald Aeschlimann’s Speedy Tuesday tribute to Alaska III are the two watches that irreversibly changed the game, demonstrating the incredible communicative power of the web and Instagram in terms of disseminating information about a watch.”

Koh was adamant that he did not wish to create a facsimile and deviated his attention to artwork, music, and fashion for the design behind the timepiece. The result was the gorgeous-blue dial, bi-register chronograph produced in 100 examples. The present example is number 000/100. The watch is powered by the Calibre 18 and is water-resistant up to 100m. The watch comes "full-set" with box and papers.

TAG Heuer Limited Edition Carrera Skipper For HODINKEE Full Set Unpolished

The Skipper is one of the many incredible Heuer watches to feature a touch of vibrant design. Drawing inspiration from the iconic reference 7754, the Skipperara would re-emerge in June 2017 when HODINKEE introduced this limited edition to great fanfare. The watch swiftly sold out and since its release, the watch remains one of the most successful limited editions from both the media company and watchmaker.

The Skipper is a tremendous watch for the summer, capturing a high-spirited look on just about any strap paring. The watch is powered by the TAG Heuer caliber 18, and is on view through the sapphire exhibition caseback. The dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 11mm tall, and the lug-width is 19mm. The watch comes "full set" with box and papers and additional straps.