What's Selling Here - May 24, 2024

By Charlie Dunne

Audemars Piguet Reference 5072ST

The time-only vintage Audemars Piguet watches with VZSS movements based upon a Valjoux ebauche are some of the most beautiful and desirable time-only watches ever made. Among those models, the 5072 is arguably the most desirable because of the large size and water-resistant case with antimagnetic dust cover.

For the reference 5072s, most are in yellow gold (BA) and a few are in rose gold, but only a mythical few are known in steel (ST). In fact, far fewer than 10 are known to the market in steel. This is the third one I have owned and I can say this reference in steel is my all-time favorite time-only Audemars Piguet. The cases were made by Charles-Rodolphe Spillman (C.R.Spillman). Spillman also made cases for Universal Geneve chronographs that are extremely desirable, early Rolex Oyster cases, and later made the Rolex Daytona cases for the 1960s to the 1980s. In addition, CRS made cases for OMEGA Speedmasters in the 1980s and it is regarded as one of the finest case makers in the world.

This example is the only one I have seen with a wider Audemars Piguet font. All the rest I have seen in steel have an extremely tiny Audemars Piguet font.

The case measures 37mm and is fitted to a 19mm strap, a common size for the Spillmann cases. The case has been lightly polished and has just been serviced. The crown has been replaced. We believe it came from the family of the original owner. The hour markers and hands were previously painted for legibility for the original owner, but our watchmaker has expertly removed the paint without harming the integrity of the dial (no other dealer would disclose this). This is truly a special and uncommon opportunity to purchase this grail watch. An unpolished reference 5072ST example has traded for more than double what we are asking for this one!

Heuer Jo Siffert Autavia Mk II Reference 1163 Unpolished

This Heuer “Jo Siffert” Autavia reference 1163 is from circa 1969. It is in outstanding condition. We believe the case is unpolished. It features the Mark 2 Flat V dial.

This watch does not include the original box and papers, has an automatic movement (Caliber 11 made by Heuer-Léonidas), and is 42mm in diameter. It was just recently serviced. It is paired on a Heuer buckle.

Rolex Red Submariner Reference 1680 w/ Meters First Dial Unpolished

This Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is a very cool sports watch dating to circa late 1969 with a 2.15M serial. It is an incredibly attractive Red Sub and has been one I have tracked for a number of years. We believe the case is unpolished. The dial, minute and hour hand all have the original lume which is a superb yellow. It is paired on a 7206 rivet bracelet from a few years earlier (1967). For those looking for an outstanding

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well. It just passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.

Rolex Explorer II Reference 1655 Unpolished

Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 1655 for use by spelunkers (cave diving) and speleologists (cave researchers) where the use of a 24-hour hand is important for the wearer to be able to differentiate between night and day. These watches also have the nickname ‘Freccione’ meaning ‘big arrow’ in Italian and are sometimes falsely called the “Steve McQueen” despite no evidence he ever owned or wore one. A slow seller when initially released, the reference 1655 has gained a cult following due its unusual and distinctive design. The reference 1655 is one of the references I am asked most often to find for collectors.

It dates to circa 1984 (8.2 million serial number). It features the automatic calibre 1575 made by Rolex. It comes from the family of the original owner. It is paired on what we believe to be the original Jubilee bracelet. We believe this example is unpolished.

Charlie Dunne loves this watch and is hoping to buy it before you do!

It does not come with box and papers. It was just serviced for the first time.

Patek Philippe Reference 3940P-011 Full Set

The Patek Philippe reference 3940 perpetual calendar is one of the most elegant complicated timepieces one can find from any manufacturer. The calendar is in English.

This watch features the thin self-winding calibre 240Q with microrotor. The case is 36mm and is made of platinum. We believe the case is unpolished. The watch has a solid caseback.

It comes with a Patek Philippe strap and a deployant buckle. It comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well.

Rolex Submariner Reference 16618 in 18K Gold w/ Blue/Purple Dial Unpolished

This Rolex Submariner reference 16618 is an outstanding Submariner dating to circa 1991. The 18k yellow fold case is in fantastic condition and is unpolished. The case has developed beautiful patina. We occasionally see blue dial 16618 from 1990-1991 have a purple phenomenon which is extremely exciting to witness on the wrist at different angles.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well. It just passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.

Rolex White Matte Dial Datejust Reference 1601 Unpolished

I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have. This 1601 is no exception. The white “matte” dial is incredibly attractive and uncommon. It is also a “sigma dial” featuring the Greek letters flanking Swiss below 6 o’clock. Rolex only used Sigma dials, indicating the hands and hour markers are made of white gold, in the 1970s. Most white Datejust dials from the 1970s are reprinted.

The watch dates to circa 1973 and features a 3.27M serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter.

The watch is in excellent condition. We believe the case is unpolished. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It does not come with box and papers.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A-001 Full Set Unpolished

This Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5167A-001 is a spectacular sports watch from the leading name in watchmaking. The case is in fantastic condition. We believe it is unpolished. It measures 40mm in diameter.

This watch comes with box and papers.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Ultra-Thin Reference 4300V/120G-B945 Full Set Unpolished

Vacheron Constantin is 1/3 of The Holy Trinity, and renowned as one of the best complicated watch specialists. This VC Overseas Perpetual Ultra-Thin Reference 4300V/120G-B945 is one of the best models within their current production. The dial is outstanding with a piercing blue. The white gold case is unpolished and measures 41.5mm in diameter.

BEST PRICE ON THE MARKET!

The watch comes with box and papers. It was sold in 2021. It comes with an alligator strap and rubber strap! The bracelet is in excellent condition and has only been worn a few times.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Ref. 77350CE.OO.1266CE.02.A Full Set

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the coolest iterations of the iconic model. It was designed by the prestigious Italian jewelry designer Carolina Bucci in 2022. The ceramic case is incredibly light and comfortable. It measures 34mm in diameter. The rainbow sapphire dial is out of this world and one of the most exciting releases from AP in recent years.

The watch comes with box and papers from the original owner.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ref 15710ST.OO.A027CA.01 Full Set

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver is a fantastic and tough dive watch. The stainless steel case measures 42mm in diameter and is 14mm thick. The watch comes on a classic Offshore Diver bracelet with additional straps. The dial features the distinct blue “Méga Tapisserie” pattern. For those looking for a great sports watch, look no further.

The watch comes with box and papers from the original owner. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Cartier Tank Louis in 18K Yellow Gold

This Cartier Tank Louis is a very nice dress model. There are scratches near the left side of the dial. We believe it dates to the 1980s. The 18k yellow gold case has been polished in the past. The case measures 23mm by 30mm.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Cartier Tank Chinoise in 18K Yellow Gold Unpolished

This is a very attractive Cartier Tank Chinoise. We believe it dates to the 1980s. The 18k yellow gold and we believe it is unpolished. The case measures 22mm by 30mm. It is powered by a quartz movement.

The watch does not come with box and papers. It was recently serviced by Cartier for approximately $500.