What's Selling Here - November 15, 2024

By Charlie Dunne

Rolex Big Crown Submariner Reference 6538

The Rolex Submariner reference 6538 with the oversized 8mm “Big Crown” is among the most iconic and highly-coveted sports watches. Produced only in the latter part of the 1950s, the reference 6538 became famous on the late Sean Connery’s wrist while portraying James Bond in the 1962 film Dr. No. That moment and affiliation cemented the Rolex Submariner as the grail watch millions around the world.

Collectors have long held Submariners in high regard and the 1950s Big Crown models are the most prestigious examples. When you look at the 1950s, it is clear that Rolex was heavily invested in the development and marketing of the Submariner family with eight different references introduced (6204, 6205, 6200, 6536, 6538, 5510, 5508, and the 5512) from 1953-1959 - more models than years! To learn more about the Submariner you can watch my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ video and corresponding article on HODINKEE.

The watch features its original and extremely rare aluminum bezel insert with red triangle that is preserved in outstanding condition. The has been lightly polished in the past, but is extremely attractive. It measures approximately 38mm in diameter. The dial is extremely well preserved and attractive. The original crystal features some crazing, but it comes with a spare period correct replacement crystal we can have our watchmaker swap for the next owner.

The most important element of this watch is the dial, which is preserved in essentially perfect glossy condition. In my opinion, it has to be among the five nicest Submariner dials from the 1950s on the planet and you just cannot find them like this. The vast majority of the Big Crown and Small Crown Submariner models from the 1950s have dials that exhibit matted-out dials and dial damage, which is in stark contract to the beautiful gloss and condition of this dial. Certain watches just knock your socks off when you hold them and this is one of them because of the beautiful and cohesive look behind the mint bezel insert and spectacular dial.

The watch is fresh to market and dates to circa 1959 with a 448,XXX serial. The watch came from the family of the original owner in Texas to an important private collector several years ago and has never been offered publicly for sale. As such, it is fresh to market. It is paired on a Rolex Swiss-made stretch Rivet bracelet from 1957 with the correct and extremely rare 65 end links to complete the watch. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 1 bar. The watch does not come with box and papers.

Collectors wanting the best possible example of a “James Bond” or “Big Crown” Rolex Submariner need look no further than this example.

Rolex GMT-Master Reference 6542 Bakelite Bezel

The Rolex GMT-Master reference 6542 marked the first reference in what would go onto become one of the most celebrated timepieces across all manufacturers. The timepiece became an icon within the James Bond movie Goldfinger after being worn by Honor Blackman during her portrayal of "Pussy Galore". It is an unmistakable watch and it is seen as grail watches for collectors who understand the importance of the 1950s Rolex sports catalog.

This particular example is an outstanding 6542 with a spectacular dial, vivid original Bakelite bezel, and great provenance. These Bakelite bezels have a propensity for cracks and are radioactive, and as a result many were replaced with non-luminous, anodized aluminum bezels. The colors are so unique and it makes for an out of this world aesthetic.

In addition to the Bakelite bezel, the dial is very well preserved and attractive. The reference 6542 dials are often known for cracking and crazing, but this example has one of the nicest dial we have seen on any reference 6542. The GMT hand has minimal lume loss, but this is expected in a sports watch over 65 years old. The case has been lightly polished, but is very attractive and full. The watch has a 398,XXX serial dating to circa late 1958. It is 38mm in diameter (48mm lug-to-lug). It is paired on what is likely its original Swiss-made Oyster rivet bracelet with super-desirable “Big Logo” clasp and 65 end links dating to 1959.

It has been in an important private collection for a number of years. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. The watch recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.

To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master, you can watch my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and read the corresponding article. I selected this exact watch for inclusion in the Reference Points article and video, so that should tell you how I feel about the quality of this example.

Rolex Double Swiss Daytona Reference 6239

The Rolex Daytona needs no introduction as it is one of the most legendary models ever made by The Crown. This is an extremely early Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6239 - from the time before the word Daytona was even adopted for the model - with the exceptional “Double Swiss” white dial. The “Double Swiss” refers to the fact that there is one SWISS above the luminous plot at 6:00 and another SWISS below the track that is visible when the dial is removed from the case. It is likely that this was for the European market and that the “Double Swiss Underline” watches with underlines under COSMOGRAPH were destined for the United States.

This watch was part of the earliest crop of Cosmograph watches made by Rolex. It has the rare and early “Mark 1” 275 bezel with hash marks next to the numbers rather than the dots on the bezels that followed these earliest examples. The hands are also thin and long, which is correct and original to the watch. The creamy-white dial is extremely attractive with warm and full luminous plots. The case has been lightly polished, but is in great condition. The case has a 923,XXX serial and dates to circa 1963. It is paired on a tight Rolex C+I stretch Oyster rivet bracelet dating to 1965.

The watch has been in an important private collection for years and sat in another important collection prior to that. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. The watch does not come with box and papers. It recently passed a water resistance test of 1 bar.

No, this watch is not inexpensive, but a Double Swiss Underline example with close serial number and creamy-white dial sold for 269,000 CHF at auction back in 2013 and sold again in 2016 at auction for 310,000 CHF, while a black dial Double Swiss Underline Daytona reference 6239 sold for 275,000 CHF at auction in 2018. As they say, “Go find another” of this quality, rarity, and provenance.

Rolex Explorer II Mk I Dial Straight Hand Reference 1655 Full Set

Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 1655 for use by spelunkers (cave diving) and speleologists (cave researchers) where the use of a 24-hour hand is important for the wearer to be able to differentiate between night and day. These watches also have the nickname ‘Freccione’ meaning ‘big arrow’ in Italian and are sometimes falsely called the “Steve McQueen” despite no evidence he ever owned or wore one. A slow seller for niche clientele when initially released, the reference 1655 has gained a cult following due its unusual and distinctive design.

The reference 1655 is one of the references I am asked most often to find for collectors and this example is incredibly attractive. It features a Mark I dial with straight seconds hand found on the earliest examples of the reference 1655 and the correct original Mark II bezel (the Mark I bezel has number slightly closer to the crystal). The orange 24-hour hand is often a focal point for collectors and this one is extremely attractive to admire on the wrist. Additionally, it features beautiful luminous hands and hour markers. It dates to circa 1973 (3.25 million serial number). It features the automatic calibre 1575 made by Rolex. The case, bezel, and bracelet have been lightly polished, but the watch is very attractive and strong.

It comes full set with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. This is an extremely attractive example of the iconic Explorer II reference 1655.

Rolex Datejust Reference 1601 w/ Lavender Dial Unpolished

This Rolex Datejust reference 1601 is an awesome timepiece. It features a beautiful dark grey with hints of lavender. We believe the case is unpolished and the watch dates to circa 1966 with a 1.42M serial. The watch measures 36mm in diameter.

The watch does not come with box and papers. It was just serviced and is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.

Rolex John Bull Submariner Reference 16803 Two Tone

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most renowned sports watches of all time. This reference 16803 features a 8.6M serial number dating to circa 1985. The case was hand finished / carved at time of purchase at the Bahamian official Rolex retailer John Bull by their master watchmaker Günter Miethe. This was a popular request by the Bahamian retailer throughout the 1980s and these watches are highly prized by collectors for their unique look and island vibes. Our understanding is that Rolex gave their blessing to their official retailer John Bull to customize these watches for the local Bahamian market at the time. While most of the John Bull watches with a bark carved finish were all-steel Submariners and a few were all-steel GMT-Masters, this is an extremely unusual two-tone Bluesy example. We understand at the time of purchase the buyer wanted a green dial, so the original dial was refinished in a metallic green that is reminiscent of the color in the flag of The Bahamas.

To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, you can watch my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ video and read the corresponding article.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 1 bar after our watchmaker replaced all the gaskets. The watch and bracelet have not been polished since new beyond the John Bull finish, so it has its full proportions.

I fell in love with this watch when I first saw it and I think any buyer that gets this can have a watch they will never see on another person’s wrist. I can’t imagine a more fun watch to wear on a trip to The Bahamas!

Breitling Big Eyes Navitimer Reference 806 on Rare JB Champion Bracelet Unpolished

This Breitling Navitimer reference 806 is a super cool vintage chronograph that belonged in my personal collection for several years. The dial features extremely attractive lume with the “Big Eyes” configuration. The case is also fantastic. We believe the stainless steel case is unpolished. The watch dates to circa 1969. It is powered by the Venus 178. It is paired on an extremely rare JB Champion bracelet. For those looking for an amazing vintage Navitimer, this is out of this world.!

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Daytona Cosmograph Reference 116500LN Unpolished Full Set

The Rolex Daytona Cosmograph reference 116500LN with white dial is affectionately known as the “Panda” and is one of the most sought-after watches in the world. It is an excellent contemporary timepiece easily suitable for any collector to wear as an everyday watch.

The watch features a white dial and black Cerachrom bezel, white dial, and black registers. It beautifully pays homage to the red arched “Daytona” font from the past. It was sold in 2019 and comes from the original owner.

The watch has some signs of wear. We believe the case is unpolished. It comes “full set” with original box and papers.