What's Selling Here - October 4, 2024
By Charlie Dunne
Patek Philippe Reference 96 In Platinum W/ Diamond Dial W/ Extract
The Patek Philippe reference 96 is not only among the iconic wristwatches of Patek Philippe, but also is recognized as leaving a monumental impact on the traditional wristwatch. While the Cartier Tank shaped the way we recognize rectangular timepieces, the same could be said about the reference 96. Although it was not the first round wristwatch, it set the standard with its attention to proportion and dimension.
Along with the venerable calibre 9-90, the reference 96 was among the first creations under the Stern family which focused the direction of the company towards wristwatches over pocket watches. The reference 96 would lay the foundation for what we know today as the “Calatrava” (both in relation to Patek Philippe and other manufacturers).
This particular reference 96 is an exceptional outlier from the conventional models due to the fact that it features a dial with diamond hour markers and platinum case. In addition to the early long signature (Patek, Philippe & Cie). These small details can be easily overlooked due to the emphatically darker dial, yet like many watches from Patek Philippe, the understated subtleties are truly what make the models special.
The platinum case has been polished in the past, but is attractive. The width is 30.5mm in diameter. It is powered by the calibre 12-120. The watch accompanies an Extract from the Archives. The watch dates to 1948 and was sold July 8th, 1948. It also comes with a platinum Patek Philippe buckle, made by Wenger, as well as a light blue Jean Rousseau strap..
Patek Philippe Reference 3940P-011 Unpolished Full Set
The Patek Philippe reference 3940 perpetual calendar is one of the most elegant complicated timepieces one can find from any manufacturer. The calendar is in English.
This watch features the thin self-winding calibre 240Q with microrotor. The case is 36mm and is made of platinum. We believe the case is unpolished. The watch has a solid caseback. It features a 4th series dial. The papers indicate it was sold in 2001.
It comes with a Patek Philippe strap and a deployant buckle. It comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is keeping good time. The amplitude is a little low at 195, so it may require a service in the future. It comes from the original owner.
The Patek Philippe reference 3940 is one of the ultimate in discreet complications and finding an unpolished full set example like this one in platinum is extremely difficult. I have no idea when we will next find another one like it.
Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 Unpolished
This is a very nice Rolex Submariner reference 5513 dating to circa 1972. We believe the case is well worn, but unpolished. It is paired on a 9315 folded link Rolex Oyster bracelet. The dial is very attractive with warm patina and what is likely the original tritium pearl. The bezel assembly appears to be unpolished and the original Mark 3 aluminum bezel insert has a nice fade to it.
Learn more about the iconic Submariner within Charlie Dunne’s comprehensive article “Collector’s Guide: Understanding The Rolex Submariner Reference 5512’.
To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, dive into my‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ video and corresponding article.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great! It just passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.
Overall, this is an excellent example of a gorgeous vintage Submariner.
Rolex Tiffany & Co. Explorer II Reference 1655
Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 1655 for use by spelunkers (cave diving) and speleologists (cave researchers) where the use of a 24-hour hand is important for the wearer to be able to differentiate between night and day. These watches also have the nickname ‘Freccione’ meaning ‘big arrow’ in Italian and are sometimes falsely called the “Steve McQueen” despite no evidence he ever owned or wore one. A slow seller when initially released, the reference 1655 has gained a cult following due its unusual and distinctive design. The reference 1655 is one of the references I am asked most often to find for collectors.
This example is a very special Explorer II featuring the highly coveted double-signed dial by Tiffany & Co. It dates to circa 1978 with a 5.35 million serial number. The case has been polished but is attractive.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It was just pressure tested and passed 3 bar.
Rolex Gilt Dial GMT-Master Reference 1675
The Rolex GMT-Master was originally designed for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s and continues to be a flagship model for Rolex to this day. The reference 1675 was introduced in 1959 and remained in production until 1980.
This is a cool gilt-dial 1675 featuring a 1.19M serial number, dating to circa 1965. The case has been polished. The aluminum bezel insert is very attractive. It is paired on a period-correct 7206 Rolex rivet bracelet with 80 end links dating to circa 1968. The hour, minute, and GMT triangle hands were relumed in the past.
It is running well and was serviced by Steve at Grand Central Watch in 2023. It recently passed a 3 bar water resistance test. The watch does not come with box and papers.
To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master you can watch the ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and corresponding article I produced. You can also read our comprehensive article ‘Collector's Guide: The Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 In Steel’.
OMEGA Broad Arrow Speedmaster Reference 2915-2 Unpolished w/ Extract
The Speedmaster is, of course, one of the most iconic and important watches ever made. This particular example is a OMEGA Speedmaster reference 2915-3 with “Broad Arrow”hands. We believe the case is unpolished. It has its original “Base 1000” bezel. The lume on the dial appears to be original and is in good shape for one of these early examples. The watch measures 39mm in diameter.
To learn more about the OMEGA Speedmaster, you can watch my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The OMEGA Speedmaster’ video and read the corresponding article.
This watch does not come with original box and papers, but does include an Extract from OMEGA confirming production on February 24, 1959 and that it was delivered to Germany.
Rolex Silver Tapestry Day-Date Reference 18038 Unpolished
The Rolex Day-Date was introduced in 1956 and was the first watch to display the date, as well as the fully-spelled-out day of the week. This reference 18038 is an awesome watch with a very silver Tapestry dial. We believe the 18K-gold case is unpolished. It measures 36mm in diameter (43mm lug-to-lug). This particular example dates to circa 1986 with a 9.1M serial.
The watch does not come with box and papers. It just passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.
Rolex Ladies Datejust Reference 69178 Unpolished w/ Papers
We are thrilled to offer this very exceptional Rolex Datejust reference 69178. It is a stunning example and is 18k yellow gold. We believe it to be unpolished. The case is 26mm in diameter and 33mm lug-to-lug. It is an absolutely stunning timepiece. It features an 9.5M serial dating to circa 1987.
The watch does not come with box. It does come with papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water test of 3 bar.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Reference 101.032 in 18K Rose Gold w/ Box & Extract
This A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 reference 101.032 is a fantastic timepiece. It has a beautiful silver dial which looks so great with the black font. The 18k pink/rose gold case has been lightly polished and measures 38.5mm in diameter. One thing that is worth highlighting in these Lange watches are the very nice numerals and hands. The watch is powered by the calibre L 901.0. The applied-Roman numerals are very refined and something to admire while looking down at your wrist.
It does come with box and an Extract or Certificate of Origin. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It is paired on an aftermarket strap. It is paired on an original ALS tang buckle.
IWC Limited Edition Portugieser Tourbillon F.A. Jones Reference 5447-02: in 18K Rose Gold Full Set
Large and in charge. This IWC Limited Edition Portugieser Tourbillon shows everyone in the room who is boss. It is a massive 43mm rose gold case. The case has been lightly polished. It is a limited edition of 50 examples. It features a Tourbillion, which is incredible!
It comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It comes from the family of the original owner. It was sold in 2013.
Rolex Green Dial Oyster Perpetual Reference 124300 41mm Full Set
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 124300 is an awesome modern watch. It has great proportions at 41mm in diameter. The smooth bezel gives it a slightly more dressy look. The green dial is accented by very attractive. The watch is in very good condition and was worn very little by the owner.
The watch comes with box and papers. It was sold recently at Monaco Legends.
OMEGA Speedmaster Reference 2998-1 Unpolished w/ Extract
The OMEGA Speedmaster is certainly one of the most iconic watches with a truly rich history of exploration and sport. This museum-grade example reference 2998-1 features a gorgeous tropical dial. The case remains unpolished in my view. The original black “Base 1000” aluminum bezel is the best condition one I have ever seen. It includes an Extract of Archives from OMEGA dating to February 16, 1960, and delivered to a US Army base in Europe. This watch does not include the original box and papers, has a manual-wind movement (Caliber 321 made by Lemania), and is 39.5mm in diameter. The watch was recently serviced by Alkis of Swiss Watch Repair. The watch comes with an Extract from The Archives.
To learn more about the OMEGA Speedmaster, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The OMEGA Speedmaster’ article and corresponding video with HODINKEE.
Heuer Carrera Reference 3647T Unpolished
This Heuer Carrera reference 3647T is a very cool example dating to circa 1966. The watch features an unpolished case, and is powered by the Valjoux calibre 92.
You can read more about the origins of the Carrera in the in-depth article that I wrote back in 2013.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running strong.
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Reference 105.012-66
The OMEGA Speedmaster was introduced in 1957, initially created for drivers in automotive racing. However, it would reach iconic status by eventually reaching spaceflight qualification by NASA amongst several of the highest grade chronographs of its era. This is an outstanding OMEGA Speedmaster reference 105.012 and a classic vintage model. It could be a perfect timepiece for just about any watch collector. The reference 105.012 was the first asymmetrical case to be released in the Speedmaster line throughout 1963-1966.
The reference 105.012 were first Speedmaster with crown and pusher guards, garnering the “Professional” name on the dial for the case upgrade. It features a stepped dial, and an applied OMEGA logo.
It has one of the most attractive dial, hand, and bezel combinations I have seen on any Speedmaster. It features the original flatter 105.012 pushers. The watch is powered by the iconic calibre 321, a calibre which was recently re-released to excitement of Speedmaster lovers.
The case was made by Huguenin Frères, and remains very crisp, showing its true form. The case is lightly polished and has its service crown. The dimensions are 42mm in diameter with a lug width of 20mm. The reference 105.012 is highly prized and collected because it was the exact same model worn by Neil Armstrong to the Moon.
To learn more about the OMEGA Speedmaster, you can watch ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Entire Lineage Of The OMEGA Speedmaster’ video I made with Ben Clymer in 2015 (and corresponding article).
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. I purchased the watch from the son of the original owner, who was an amateur race car driver and glider pilot. He loved speed and this was a faithful companion on his wrist! The son was selling it to help fund his daughter’s wedding.
Patek Philippe Ladies Aquanaut Diamond Bezel 5067A-001 Full Set
The Patek Philippe reference 5067A-001 is a very beautiful timepiece. The steel case measures 35mm in diameter. It features a very attractive diamond-set bezel. The watch was originally sold in 2016. We believe the case is unpolished.
The watch comes full set with box and papers. It recently had the battery replaced. The watch comes from the family of the original owner.
OMEGA Reference 2383-5 Unpolished
This OMEGA reference 2383-5 is a very cool watch. The case is 35mm in diameter by 42mm lug to lug. We believe the case is unpolished. It dates to the 1940s.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Rolex Honeycomb Dial Oyster Precision Reference 6422
This Oyster Precision reference 6422 features a spectacular honeycomb dial. The watch dates to circa 1955. The case measures 35mm in diameter (41mm lug-to-lug). It has been lightly polished, but is a strong timepiece. It is a manual-wind movement.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.
Rolex Ladies Datejust Reference 6917 Unpolished w/ Papers
We are thrilled to offer this very exceptional Rolex Datejust reference 6917. It is a stunning example and is 18k yellow gold. We believe it to be unpolished. The case is 26mm in diameter and 33mm lug-to-lug. It is an absolutely stunning timepiece. It features an 6.23M serial dating to circa 1979. It was sold in 1981
The watch does not come with box. It does come with papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water test of 3 bar.
Rolex Two-Tone Datejust Reference 16013 w/ Champagne Dial Unpolished
This two-tone Rolex Datejust reference 16013 is an attractive timepiece. It features a very nice champagne dial. The case measures 36mm in diameter. We believe the case is unpolished. The watch dates to circa 1987 with a 9.5M serial.
This watch does not include the original box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great! It recently passed a water test of 1 bar.
Rolex Silver Dial Date Reference 1500 Unpolished
This Rolex Date is a super attractive example with a silver dial. We believe the case is unpolished. The watch has a 2.205M serial number dating to circa 1969.
The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great. The watch just passed a 3 bar water resistance test.
Rolex Two-Tone Datejust Reference 16013 Unpolished w/ Papers
This two-tone Rolex Datejust reference 16013 is an attractive timepiece. It features a very nice champagne dial. The case measures 36mm in diameter. We believe the case is unpolished. The watch dates to circa 1987 with a 9.6M serial.
This watch does not include the original box. It does come with papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great! It recently passed a water test of 3 bar.
Rolex Straight Hand Explorer II Reference 1655
Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 1655 for use by spelunkers (cave diving) and speleologists (cave researchers) where the use of a 24-hour hand is important for the wearer to be able to differentiate between night and day. These watches also have the nickname ‘Freccione’ meaning ‘big arrow’ in Italian and are sometimes falsely called the “Steve McQueen” despite no evidence he ever owned or wore one. A slow seller when initially released, the reference 1655 has gained a cult following due its unusual and distinctive design. The reference 1655 is one of the references I am asked most often to find for collectors.
It dates to circa 1971 (2.73 million serial number).The case has been polished but is attractive. It features a very orange 24-hour hand, and warmer lume.
It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It was just pressure tested and passed 3 bar.
IWC Big Pilot's Watch TOP GUN Miramar IW501902 Full Set
This IWC Big Pilot's Watch TOP GUN Miramar IW501902 is a super cool watch from IWC. The ceramic case measures 48mm in diameter and is highly legible! For all you Mavericks out there looking for a Charlie Blackwood, this might just break the ice.
The watch comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It was sold in 2014, and comes from the family of the original owner.
Glashutte Original Senator Moon Phase Skeletonised Edition 1-49-13-15-15-04 Full Set
This Glashutte Original is a very sophisticated timepiece. The 18k rose gold case measures 42mm in diameter. It is beautifully decorated on the movement. The MSRP was +$41,0000
The watch comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It was sold in 2016, and comes from the family of the original owner.
Glashutte Original The Star Golden Dragon Rose Gold 1-65-01-60-60-04 W/ Papers & Hardshell Box
This Glashutte Original is a very sophisticated timepiece. The 18k rose gold case measures approximately 39mm in diameter. It is beautifully decorated with rubies and diamonds.
The watch comes with papers. It does not come with a wooden box, but has the hardshell cardboard box. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It comes from the family of the original owner.
Glashutte Original Star Autumn Leaf 1-90-00-11-11-04 W/ Full Set
This Glashutte Original is a very sophisticated timepiece. The 18k rose gold case measures approximately 39mm in diameter. It is beautifully decorated with diamonds and has a fantastic Mother of Pearl dial.
The watch comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It comes from the family of the original owner.
Corum Coin Watch
This is a very cool Corum coin watch. It is made of 18K gold. It is quartz powered. it measures approximately 32mm in diameter.
It does not come with box and papers. The quartz battery was just replaced.