What's Selling Here - September 20, 2024

By Charlie Dunne

Darth Vader's Cartier Tank Louis Xl Jumbo 17002 Unpolished

The Cartier Tank Louis is one of the most sophisticated dress watches and these models have grown to become highly collectible over recent years. It is a great contrast to many sports Rolex models within a collection and can be worn in both a casual and dressed up state.

This example dates to circa 1970s. It features an 18K yellow gold case. We believe the case is unpolished. These are the largest vintage Tanks. The case measures 28mm in diameter and 35mm in length. The dial is spectacular condition and without any signs of wear or crazing. Often, these have crazing.

We are thrilled to offer this particular was, as it was owned by David Prowse the famous actor who played Darth Vader in the Stars Wars Trilogy. This watch is mentioned in detail in his autobiography ‘Straight From The Forces Mouth’ which is incredible.

“Somehow, we've moved on to Dallas but although it's a new city the routine's the same and there's another hectic schedule lying in wait.

Five more interviews later, I managed to squeeze in a sunbathe and a swim in the hotel pool whilst I was waiting to be collected to fly to our next stop which was St. Louis. Met a hairdresser from Champagne Illinois, who was in Dallas looking for a job. The temperature today was 97°F so I dived into the pool to accompany her on a few lengths. I hadn't swum more than about 20 yards when I suddenly realised that I had three thousand dollars' worth of Cartier watch on a present from Prince Khalid of Saudi Arabia) and the watch wasn't waterproof. I beat a hasty exit out of the pool and got the hotel concierge to get my watch to a repairer so that it could be cleaned out before the innards went rusty. I was later informed that I had only just made it in time. Another few seconds in the pool and my precious Cartier would have ticked its last.”

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well.

Rolex Explorer II Reference 1655 Unpolished

Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 1655 for use by spelunkers (cave diving) and speleologists (cave researchers) where the use of a 24-hour hand is important for the wearer to be able to differentiate between night and day. These watches also have the nickname ‘Freccione’ meaning ‘big arrow’ in Italian and are sometimes falsely called the “Steve McQueen” despite no evidence he ever owned or wore one. A slow seller when initially released, the reference 1655 has gained a cult following due its unusual and distinctive design. The reference 1655 is one of the references I am asked most often to find for collectors.

This example is outstanding. It dates to circa 1975 (3.9 million serial number). It features the automatic calibre 1575 made by Rolex. We believe this example is unpolished.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex L Serial Explorer I Reference 1016 Unpolished Full Set

The Rolex Explorer reference 1016 is one of the purest expressions of watch design, and it is for this reason that I am probably asked for vintage Explorer reference 1016s more than any other watch.

This example is one of the last Explorer 1016s produced. It dates to circa 1989 with a L serial. It was sold in 1990. It features a pale white lume on the hands and luminous markers. The case is 36mm in diameter (43mm lug-to-lug). We believe the case is unpolished. It is in mint condition and one of the best I have seen. It is paired on a bracelet with a flip lock clasp which is seen on the final 1016s.

To learn more about the history and evolution of the Rolex Explorer I, you can see my video and corresponding article Reference Points A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I.

We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It come full set with box and papers.

Rolex Fuchsia GMT-Master Reference 1675 Full Set

The Rolex GMT-Master was originally designed for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s and continues to be a flagship model for Rolex to this day. The reference 1675 was introduced in 1959 and remained in production until 1980.

This is a very cool Fuchsia 1675 featuring a 1.82M serial number, dating to circa 1968. These bezels were born on watches featuring 1.8M and 1.9M serial range from circa 1968-1969. The case is lightly polished and worn well. The aluminum bezel insert is very attractive. It is paired on a correct 7206 Rolex rivet bracelet with 80 end links. The hour, minute, and GMT triangle hands were relumed in the past.

We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a 3 bar water resistance test. The watch comes with box and papers and comes from a Vietnam veteran.

To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master you can watch the ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and corresponding article I produced. You can also read our comprehensive article ‘Collector's Guide: The Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 In Steel’.

Rolex “Blue” Daytona Reference 6262

This Rolex Daytona reference 6262 is a super cool watch. The Daytona font on these examples appears to have a light blue color in certain lights (similar to secondary stamped Submariner 5512’s SCOC font). This occurs as the font was stamped subsequent to the Rolex Cosmograph font on the dial. The dial is attractive with clean subdials. The case has been polished. The watch measures approximately 36mm in diameter (39mm including the crown). It features a 2.52M serial number dating to circa late 1970. The central chronograph hand is slightly later. It is paired on a period correct bracelet dating to the 4th quarter of 1970.

It was recently serviced and is running well. It does not come with box and papers.

Movado Explorer Dial Kingmatic S Unpolished

This Movado Kingmatic is an awesome watch. The case measures approximately 35mm in diameter (42mm lug-to-lug). We believe the case is unpolished. It features a beautiful and uncommon glossy Explorer dial similar to the Rolex Explorer 1016. The dates to the 1960s.

Fingers crossed Rich Fordon finds this watch worthy of including in his weekly column!

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Grey Dial Datejust Ref 1601

This Rolex Datejust reference 1601 is a great timepiece. The case measures 36mm in diameter (42mm lug-to-lug). The case has been polished, the bezel appears to be unpolished. It features a beautiful and uncommon grey dial. The the hands are luminous and the dial is a non-luminous one. The hands were possibly replaced. The dates to circa 1972 with a 3.04M serial.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Datejust Reference 16014 Unpolished w/ Silver Dial

I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have.

This Datejust features a silver “soleil” dial that has is beautiful. This watch dates back to circa 1986 with an 8.93M serial and measures 36mm in diameter.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is keeping excellent time. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.

Breitling AOPA Reference 765 Unpolished w/ Box & Booklet

The Breitling Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) models represent an incredible chapter in Breitling history. This example is a great entry to vintage Breitling models and is an overall awesome chronograph! It has an unpolished case. It measures 38mm in diameter (45mm lug-to-lug). The dial is in great condition with warm patina on the numerals. The watch is powered by the Venus calibre 178.

The watch comes with box and a Breitling booklet. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Universal Genève Compur Reference 52403 in 18K Yellow Gold

This Universal Genève Compur reference 52403 is a very cool chronograph model dating to circa 1945. The yellow gold case measures 38mm in diameter. It has been polished in the past. The case was made by Spillman. The dial is attractive, and in nice condition for this era. The watch is paired on a strap made from a repurposed Hermes bag, and a Universal Genève gold buckle.

It does not come with box/papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Date Black Dial Reference 15210 Unpolished

This Rolex Date reference 15210 is a fantastic watch with a beautiful black dial. The watch dates to circa 2000 with a P serial. The case 34mm in diameter. We believe the case is unpolished.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona White Gold Reference 116519LN On Oysterflex Full Set

The Rolex Daytona Cosmograph reference 116519LN with grey dial is a fantastic iteration of the iconic sports watch. Paired on its original Oysterflex band, it is truly suited to be worn in all active situations. It dates to 2022. It has some light wear. We believe the case is unpolished. It is partially stickered.

The watch features a grey dial, black Cerachrom bezel, black registers and the beautiful red-arched “Daytona” font. The case is in 18K white gold and is powered by the calibre 4130.

It comes “full set” with original box and papers.

Rolex Datejust Ref 16014 w/ Linen Dial Unpolished

I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have and the simplicity in this linen-dial reference 16014 is so beautiful.

The watch dates to circa 1978 with a 5.46M serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter. We believe the case is unpolished.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar

Rolex Daytona Cosmograph Reference 116500LN w/ Black Dial Full Set Unpolished

The Rolex Daytona Cosmograph reference 116500LN is one of the most sought-after watches in the world. It is an excellent contemporary timepiece easily suitable for any collector to wear as an everyday watch. The watch features a black dial and black Cerachrom bezel. It beautifully pays homage to the red arched “Daytona” font from the past. We believe the case is unpolished.

The watch dates to 2023. It comes “full set” with original box and papers.

Patek Philippe Ellipse Reference 3749/1 In White Gold Unpolished

This Patek Philippe Ellipse is a spectacular timepiece. ]The case is unpolished and made of 18K white gold. We believe the case is unpolished and it features a fantastic bracelet. It dates to the 1970s. It is a manual wind movement.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Submariner Reference 168000 Unpolished

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most renowned sports watches of all time. The reference 168000 is a rare watch produced for approximately one year. The lume is very attractive. It is 40mm in diameter. This reference 168000 features a 9.6M serial number dating to circa 1987. We believe the case is unpolished.

To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, you can watch my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ video and read the corresponding article.

It does not come with box/papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Universal Genève White Gold Pocket Watch Reference 71726 For Saudi Arabian Market Watch w/ Box

Universal Genève pocket watch reference 71726 is a very sophisticated timepiece. The white gold case measures 47mm in diameter. We believe it is unpolished. The watch dates to circa 1956. It is powered by the calibre 274. The dial is very special with a palm tree and swords seen in UG watches for the Saudi Arabian market. Some say these watches were possibly a gift from a member of the royal family to diplomats.

It does not come with papers. It comes with a beautiful green presentation box with matching logo. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Day-Date Reference 18238 in 18K Yellow Gold w/ Black Dial Unpolished

This Rolex Day-Date reference 18238 is a super nice watch in outstanding condition. It has an an 18K yellow gold case. We believe the case is unpolished. It features an incredibly attractive black dial. It features an W serial, and dates to circa 1995.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar

Rolex Two-Tone Datejust Reference 1601 Full Set

This Rolex Datejust reference 1601 is a very cool watch. It dates to circa 1971 with a 2.52M serial number. The steel case and gold bezel have been polished. It measure 36mm in diameter.

It comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar.

Rolex Wide Boy Day-Date 1803 In 18K YG

This Rolex Day-Date reference 1803 is a very cool wristwatch with the uncommon Wide Boy dial in silver. The 18K yellow gold case has been polished. It has a 2.03M serial dating to circa 1969.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well. It recently passed a water resistance test of 3 bar

Rolex Speedking with Gilt Dial Unpolished

This Rolex Speedking is a super cool watch with gilt dial. The steel case measures approximately 30mm in diameter (36mm lug to lug). We believe the case is unpolished. It features a 1.48M serial dating to circa 1966.

It does not come with box or papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Ebel Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref 3136901 in White Gold on Bracelet Unpolished

Ebel wristwatches have become very interesting for collectors in recent years. Particularly with their association to the Zentith El Primero calibre and interesting designs. This Ebel has a very cool white gold case and bracelet. It wears great at 43mm in diameter. We believe the case is unpolished. It features a perpetual calendar and chronograph complication. Ebel was the second company (after Patek Philippe) to introduce a perpetual chronograph. This watch dates to the 1980s. For those looking for a complicated chronograph on bracelet, this is unbeatable value.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well.

Cartier Tank Normale Reference 78092 Unpolished

The Tank Normale is one of the iconic models within the Cartier Tank family and the original design based on a French tank. It has been particularly special in my career as I was privileged to sell a smaller Tank Normale example that belonged to Jackie Kennedy Onassis during my time as Vice President, Senior Specialist for Christie's.

This particular example is in great condition and dates to the 1980s. The case is made of 18k yellow gold. It measures 23mm wide by 30mm lug to lug. We believe the case is unpolished. The octagonal sapphire cabochon crown features the flattened surface and appears to be original. The Normale has become regained a great deal of attention with its long awaited release. This example is a fantastic deal compared to the new release. This is a MK 1 example, of which only approximately 800 were produced.

It does not come with the box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Reference 105.012-65 Unpolished

The Omega Speedmaster was introduced in 1957, initially created for drivers in automotive racing. However, it would reach iconic status by eventually reaching spaceflight qualification by NASA amongst several of the highest grade chronographs of its era. This is an outstanding Omega Speedmaster reference 105.012-65 is a classic vintage model and could be a perfect timepiece for just about any watch collector.

The reference 105.012 were first Speedmaster with crown and pusher guards, garnering the “Professional” name on the dial for the case upgrade. It features a stepped dial, and an applied Omega logo. It is in phenomenal condition, with a slightly warm tone developing throughout the perimeter, and is beginning to show signs of becoming tropical.

It is powered by the highly admired calibre 321, which was recently re-released to excitement of many Speedy lovers. The reference 105.012 was the first asymmetrical case to be released in the Speedmaster line throughout 1963-1966.

The case was made by Huguenin Frères, and remains very crisp, showing its true form. The watch appears to be unpolished and has its original crown, which is uncommon as most were replaced during service. The dimensions are 42mm in diameter with a lug width of 20mm. The reference 105.012-65 is highly prized and collected because it was the exact same model worn by Neil Armstrong to the Moon. The watch was just serviced and I am thrilled to offer this great watch to the next lucky owner.

Seiko Blue Pogue 6139 Unpolished

The Seiko “Pogue” chronograph is one of the most interesting and distinctive watches from the 1970s. They have earned the nickname the “Pogue” since Colonel William R. Pogue wore a similar watch during a NASA Skylab mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph to be worn in space. These are wonderful watches on the wrist and very easy to wear. This Blue Pogue is a very attractive example. The case is unpolished.

This watch does not include box or papers, has an automatic movement (Caliber 6139A made by Seiko), and is 41mm in diameter. It was recently serviced and is running well.

Rolex Datejust Reference 1601 w/ White Matte Dial

I absolutely love steel Rolex Datejusts. I recently wrote about them in our blog ‘Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel’. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have. This 1601 is no exception. The white “matte” dial is incredibly attractive and uncommon. It is also a “sigma dial” featuring the Greek letters flanking Swiss below 6 o’clock. Rolex only used Sigma dials, indicating the hands and hour markers are made of white gold, in the 1970s. Most white Datejust dials from the 1970s are reprinted.

The watch dates to circa 1972 and features a 3.05M serial. The case measures 36mm in diameter.The watch is in excellent condition. The case has been lightly polished.

We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It does not come with box and papers. It has just passed a pressure test of 3 bar.