Patek Philippe Reference 96 with Black Dial

The Patek Philippe reference 96 is not only among the iconic wristwatches of Patek Philippe, but also is recognized as leaving a monumental impact on the traditional wristwatch. While the Cartier Tank shaped the way we recognize rectangular timepieces, the same could be said about the reference 96. Although it was not the first round wristwatch, it set the standard with its attention to proportion and dimension.

Along with the venerable calibre 9-90, the ref. 96 was among the first creations under the Stern family which focused the direction of the company towards wristwatches over pocket watches. The reference 96 would lay the foundation for what we know today as the “Calatrava” (both in relation to Patek Philippe and other manufacturers).

This particular reference 96 is an exceptional outlier from the conventional models due to the fact that it features an original black dial, which was very uncommon for the period. The dial features beautifully applied dauphine hour markers and a railroad enamel minute track around the peripheral of the dial. It also features an incredibly ornate hard enamel railroad track and dauphine markers within the subsidiary dial, in addition to the early long signature (Patek, Philippe & Cie). These small details can be easily overlooked due to the emphatically darker dial, yet like many watches from Patek Philippe, the understated subtleties are truly what make the models special.

The 18K yellow gold case is well preserved and appears to be unpolished. The width is 30.5mm in diameter. It is powered by the calibre 12-120. Among the images below, a similar model can be seen from a 1938 Patek Philippe catalogue. The watch accompanies its original presentation box and papers, in addition to the Extract from the Archives. The watch is paired with a tan Wind Vintage leather strap made by Nick Gabarro which harmoniously accents the enamel within the dial.

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