A Look Into The Mr Porter X Wind Vintage Vintage Watch Curation
By Charlie Dunne and Eric Wind
Mr Porter has just unveiled a special vintage watch curation by Eric Wind of Wind Vintage. The sale consists of eleven timepieces at various price points. Each watch is in collector’s grade condition and has a unique style. Wind expressed his enthusiasm for this collaboration with Mr Porter by stating:
“I am all about spreading the gospel of vintage watches, so it is an honor to be able to expose Mr Porter's massive audience of customers to the beauty of great vintage watches. As a longtime customer and fan of Mr Porter, I am beyond excited to have the opportunity to supply a curated collection of vintage watches for the platform. Each one has an amazing history and each watch I would be proud to own in my personal collection. There is a variety of style options and price points in the collection and I believe each is an heirloom.”
You can find the curated selection below on Mr Porter:
https://www.mrporter.com/en-us/mens/designer/eric-wind-vintage
Vintage 1965 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Automatic 34mm Steel Watch, Ref. No. 1002
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 is quite possibly the perfect all-around 34mm watch. This examples hour markers at 3, 6, and 9 are very interesting with grooves that radiate out as they project toward the center of the dial. The hour markers are complemented by a beautiful dial that features a silver soleil (sunburst) finish. The watch is paired with a Rolex Swiss rivet 7205 bracelet and the case is unpolished and full, which is rare and important to collectors.
Vintage 1970 Zenith El Primero Automatic Chronograph 38mm Stainless Steel and Leather Watch, Ref. No. A384
Image credit: Mr Porter
Introduced in 1969, the Zenith El Primero remains one of the most beloved chronographs in watchmaking. This particular model dates to 1970 and is powered by the automatic high-beat calibre 3019, and features the exciting red chronograph hand which matches the vibrant rally strap.
The watch is 38mm wide (with a lug-to-lug length of 45.5mm). The lug width is 19mm and the height is 12.5mm including the crystal. The case remains unpolished and features a replaced, period-correct Zenith crown.
The hands and hour markers feature a pale yellow tritium that immediately catches the attention of the wearer. Competing with the tri-colored subdials, the attributes of this watch are really a beautiful testament to the sports watches of yesteryear.
Vintage 1948 Rolex for Asprey Hand-Wound 9-Karat Gold Pocketwatch, Ref. No. 2795
Image credit: Mr Porter
This Rolex pocket watch is truly special. The dial features one of the most prestigious English watch retailer’s signature “Asprey” on a beautifully preserved sector dial. The romantic feuille (or leaf) hands are highly sophisticated and remain an uncommon style to find on Rolex watches from the past. The stepped-9K gold case and applied-Roman numerals provide a nice formal aesthetic for what would go on to become the most iconic sports watch manufacturers in the world. A special note marks the provenance of this gift engraved “To David, From Veronica. 17th June 1948”.
Image credit: Mr Porter
Vintage 1970s Vulcain Cricket Hand-Wound 37mm Chrome-Plated and Leather Watch, Ref. No. 6001
Image credit: Mr Porter
The Vulcain Cricket remains the most iconic alarm wristwatch since the inventor Robert Ditisheim’s research was completed in the late 1940s. It would swiftly become an international success and was sought after throughout the United States with collectors waiting for watch retailers to restock inventory.
The 1960s and 1970s ushered in a new wave of larger and more flamboyant styles. The reference 6001 is among the most stylish variations with a myriad of blue-vertically brushed tones within the dial. The watch is powered by the manual wind calibre MSR S2.
Vintage 1960's OMEGA Seamaster 36mm 18-Karat Gold Watch, Ref. No. 168.1501/ 196.1501
Image credit: Mr Porter
This Seamaster reference 168.1501 / 196.1501 is a brilliant, solid gold wristwatch. The lyre lugs are reminiscent of those found in the iconic Huguenin Frères cases for the seminal OMEGA Speedmasters. However, the timepiece bears an indication on the interior caseback that it was in fact produced in Italy. The exterior also features the Omani Khanjar engraving of the Sultan Qaboos. The watch is powered by the quartz calibre 1438. The lug width is 18mm wide and the bracelet features a deployant clasp. The watch has a diameter of 36mm (42.5mm lug-to-lug) with a height of just under 10mm. The hollow sword hands allow the wearer to always admire the dial’s wave motif.
Vintage 1960s Longines Time-Only Automatic Stainless Steel Watch, Ref. No. 2554-340 “Full Set”
Image credit: Mr Porter
This Longines reference 2552-340 is a fantastic example from Longines-Wittanaur, the brand’s American market importer. The case remains in immaculate condition since it was made in the 1960s by Star Watch Case Company, one of the important American casemakers based out of Ludington, Michigan. The watch is powered by the automatic calibre 342 and features the import code LXW. It is paired on its original stainless steel bracelet made by JB Champion and accompanies its original box.
1992 OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Hand-Wound Chronograph Stainless Steel Watch, Ref. No. 145.022
Image credit: Mr Porter
As one of the most iconic and important watches ever made, the OMEGA Speedmaster remains an essential timepiece for many collectors to own. Whether the vintage examples from the 1960s, or modern reinterpretations, the Speedy remains the quintessential chronograph. This reference 145.022 was produced in 1992 and accompanies its original steel OMEGA bracelet. The watch is powered by the manual wind calibre 861.
Vintage 1969 Heuer Camaro Hand-Wound Chronograph Stainless Steel and Leather Watch, Ref. No. 7220NT
Image credit: Mr Porter
The Heuer Camaro remains one of the underrated Heuer chronographs. The atypical cushion-shaped case has seen a new wave of appreciation as Heuer collecting has become more prominent. The dial has developed a slight tropical appearance since its life began in 1969. In addition to the sunburst finish on the bezel, the thick, faceted hour markers are incredible in the natural light. The movement is the iconic Valjoux 72.
Vintage 1967 Rolex Submariner Meters First Automatic 40mm Steel Watch, Ref. No. 5513
Image credit: Mr Porter
The Rolex Submariner is the most celebrated dive watch due to its iconic history. It is a watch that is not only recognized, but respected whether or not you are a watch collector. This “Meters First” reference 5513 dates to 1967. The dial features a well preserved dial with pale-yellow lume. The bezel features the original “Long 5” insert and the watch is paired with a Rolex C+I stretch-rivet bracelet.
Vintage 1981 Rolex GMT-Master Automatic 40mm Steel Watch, Ref. No. 16750
Image credit: Mr Porter
The Rolex GMT-Master was originally designed for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s and continues to be a flagship model for Rolex to this day. Among them, the reference 16750 is one of the many highly admired examples. This particular model dates to 1981, and is known to collectors as the "Magnum PI" Pepsi for its association with the television show and actor Tom Selleck. The watch is powered by calibre 3075, an upgraded movement from the GMT line at the time. It is paired beautifully on a period correct Rolex Swiss solid link 78360 bracelet.
Vintage 1997 Rolex Datejust “Tapestry Dial” Automatic 36mm Steel Watch, Ref. No. 16200 “Full Set”
Image credit: Mr Porter
This Rolex Datejust reference 16200 dates to 1997. The watch has remained stored away over the past 25 years, and is in "New Old Stock" maintaining the original caseback sticker. It is paired on a steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet that has a nice firm feel on the wrist. The dial is an incredible-white tapestry dial. It has an automatic movement (Caliber 3035 made by Rolex), and is 36mm in diameter. The watch comes “full-set” with the original box and papers.
Charlie Dunne is the Director of Content and Research for Wind Vintage and has been published and quoted in numerous other watch publications.