10 of The Best Affordable Vintage Watches You Need To Know

By Charlie Dunne

Many people first approaching the field of vintage watches aren’t sure where to start. Even if you have a boatload of money, getting a Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona out of the gate might not be the best foray into the space. Eric Wind compares it to someone buying their first painting and it being a Picasso; it would no’t really give you a proper understanding appreciation of the field.

The list below contains 10 watches - some more general and some specific - that you should definitely know. If you are an aficionado, you may recognize most of these. If you are exploring vintage watches, this is a great place to start and hopefully will save you some time. Many of these are models I proactively hunt for clients, friends, and in some instances myself! Picking up from my recent article on the best vintage watches to consider between $10,000 - $20,000 (as well as the 10 best vintage Rolex watches to collect), this article will focus specifically on vintage watches that can be found below $10,000, or as watch collectors say “affordable” watches.

1) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 1002

What would a watch list be without a Rolex? But before you become annoyed by my obvious inclusion of the Crown, hear me out: water-resistant cases are pretty convenient for everyday life. Whether it be during a nasty rainstorm or casually washing your hands, it is nice to feel comfortable wearing a vintage watch. In addition, high-quality automatic movements are a nice touch and mean you don’t need to remember to wind it if continually wearing it! [Sidebar: Hans Wilsdorf really knew his stuff!]

Back to the topic: The Oyster Perpetual reference 1002 might be the quintessential entry-level Rolex watch. The reference 1002 packs a major punch at 34mm. Each watch was tested for chronometer certification alongside the heavy hitters from the brand. These OPs are both charming and timeless, but it is the dial variants that make these so appealing to collectors. There is quite literally a full spectrum of colors and textures. It is generally hard to double up on a single reference, but with watches like the 1002 could even justify having different examples in a collection. For thick-wristed individuals, these may be a bit too small. However, I think these look fantastic on a wrist as big as approximately 7 inches in circumference. If you are not looking to spend more than $5,000 on a Rolex, get your deal of the century by buying a great 1002 and wearing it for the rest of your life. It is a great watch model.

2) Breitling Navitimers

The Breitling Navitimer is an obvious choice for this article and for any collector that wants a quality vintage chronograph. Yet, what makes Breitling different from the other options within this list is that these watches are large watches for the 1950s-1960s compared to most other chronographs and watches from that era. The fact they were made specifically for pilots with incredible eye-sight and maintained these large dimensions is a blessing. Some interesting context to consider is that many of the collectible vintage chronographs with the brand cachet and history of Breitling will be twice, if not three times or more, as expensive.

The 806 is the classic reference and should be the first area of focus. However, some very cool and funky references enter the picture in the 1960s and 1970s that are worth getting into! But if we are keeping this succinct, the reference 806 is a perfect option to pursue with many dial variants. There is really not much else to say. If you have an interest in a watch with great heritage, size and evolution, the Navitimer is seriously good. If you really want to get crazy, you can go for a very early example with a Valjoux 72 movement, but we would say you can get a similar bang for the buck for less than half what that one would cost.

3) Time-Only Longines

Perhaps one of the greatest watch manufacturers and the best value propositions in the vintage market is Longines. As is the case with vintage Movado, you may need deeper pockets to get into the chronograph club, but with the simple time-only models you can flourish. Many vintage Longines from the 1950s-1960s have great dimensions and are timeless watches. These include iconic models such as the Longines Conquest, as well as some deep-cut references the vintage Longines collectors are hoping don’t become too mainstream.

If you are fascinated by quality timepieces, Longines watches are deeply rich in this category and often accompany great provenance. You can read a long-form article I wrote about a pair which were awarded at the 1952 Winter Army Championships in Andermatt. Eric Wind & I also came across a Sei Tacche reference 5697 retailed By Türler which was connected to a Zurich-based tobacco company.

Do not count out American-market examples either. The above example, a Grand Prize automatic on bracelet, and the below Longines for American Motors Corporation are just two of the many incredible timepieces I’ve had the pleasure of selling to passionate watch collectors. The heritage of Longines is exceptional, and it is the true connoisseurs’ watch. Along with the incredible dials, cases and movements, there is a wide range of scholarship out there to plant the seeds for a lifelong passion.

I said it recently: In my perspective, manufacturers such as Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Longines are amongst the highest rank for their amazing heritage, designs, near vertical integration, production, and contributions within the story of watchmaking. On one end, I don’t enjoy including these watches in an article that people will read and take advantage of the deals. On the other, I have to include one of the best categories in this article, even if it pains me to do so!

4) Time-Only OMEGA

While OMEGA Speedmasters were a bit slow in 2023 (mostly due to press involving terrible actors involved in the $3.4M Frankenstein reference 2915-1 auctioned in late 2021), one of the areas of opportunity is their time-only models from the 1950s. OMEGA has a wide-ranging catalog, and are a historically important manufacturer. Despite everyone in the vintage scene knowing how great these watches are, they have not become too pricey for the collector who enjoys a decent deal. Unlike some of the other manufacturers listed in the article, I am open to all types of references/models.

Above is a reference 2505-21 in steel which dates to circa 1959. It has beautiful feuille (leaf) hands and measures 37mm in diameter. The reference 14159 below is a bit more flamboyant with fancy lugs. Although it has an aggressive side with the long alpha hands. Just a hair thinner than the 2505, it measures 36.5mm in diameter. If you are looking for a distinct timepiece that ranges from $2,500 - $3,900, I encourage you to look into watches like these. Keep an eye out for Seamasters, Constellations, and even De Villes if you want to cosplay as George Clooney.

5) Rolex Air-King

The Air-King reference 14000 is an interesting watch in that it was the final Oyster reference Rolex produced which was non-chronometer certified. Regardless of the chronometer certification, we often find they perform better 25+ years later without a service on a timegrapher than the top product lines in other manufacturers.

We consider the 14000 the last great Air-King: it is much more attractive than the current Air-King offerings from Rolex. The Air-King reference 14000 wears a bit more favorably compared to the predecessor Air-King reference 5500 because of the long lug-to-lug dimensions. Don’t get me wrong, the 5500s are great watches, but they are just a tad bit smaller in the lug-to-lug length. For under $5,000 you can get an extremely nice example that will provide a lifetime of enjoyment! Honorable mention for the Air-King reference 14010 that is identical to the 14000 except with the addition of a steel engine-turned bezel.

6) Zodiac Sea Wolf

The Zodiac Sea Wolf is a very special watch with its own role in the aquatic/submersible watch history. As collector Max Braun wrote, “When Zodiac released its Sea Wolf at the 1953 Basel Fair, it was the first dive watch, alongside the Fifty Fathoms, to feature a rotating bezel. And with a depth rating of 10 atmospheres (~100 meters), it was actually green lit to go slightly deeper than the Fifty Fathoms (~90 meters). The rest of the story you probably know. The Sub goes on to become the gift du jour for well-heeled, male college grads while the Fifty Fathoms would become a favorite for the inside baseball crowd. And somewhere along the way, we forgot about the Sea Wolf.“

The Zodiac Sea Wolf is a spectacular watch not only for its great heritage, but also because of the vibrant nature of these models. Sea Wolf’s are one of the most exciting colorful dive watches, many of which use collector favorites like orange, blues and yellows. The dials are quite interesting in that they have glossy variants, as well as sunburst examples. The chapter rings are also highly reactive under UV lights making for a very unique attribute of the period.

7) Patek Philippe Pocket Watches

Patek Philippe’s pocket watches present a great opportunity for collectors who want a timepiece with great value. Particularly when it comes to the simple, time-only examples. One of the key benefits I find in non-complicated Patek Philippe pocket watches is that they often are not polished. My theory is because they do not require as frequent servicing, nor do they command the high prices worthy of auctions, so they’re often left alone. In contrast, high-profile complicated models can often become “beautified” for the main stage at auction. Instead, the simple pocket watches, whether +100 years old, or from the second half of the 20th century, can be found without their integrity compromised, and at attractive price points. Moreover, pocket watches often accompany traces from the past via engravings, or details pertaining to esoteric retailers. Some of my favorite models are the Patek Philippe reference 600s - which in my view is one of the most beautiful pocket watch models ever created.

Do not count out the earlier, pre-reference pocket watches from the 1910s and earlier. These were some of the most incredible and well made watches being produced on the planet. While I can certainly appreciate the Nautilus and Aquanaut era of Patek Philippe, it is truly a shame that many Patek collectors do not care to know about the manufacturer’s pocket watches. On a number of occasions, I have presented an incredible Patek pocket watch to someone wearing a “hype” PP to gauge their reaction. Most often I will see a face of apathy - I might as well be showing them a rock. Regardless of these reactions, this is actually quite nice for those collectors who aspire to collect Patek’s incredible creations from the past as they are taking advantage while the focus is on mainstream wristwatches. For those flourishing on these timepieces, congratulations and well done! There is a tremendous amount of history and stories waiting to be uncovered within these timepiece sand it is rewarding to help collectors that respect the more niche genre.

8) Early Vulcain Cricket Models

As I wrote in Hodinkee a few years back: “The Vulcain Cricket was introduced in December 1947 at the Waldorf Astoria in New York City, the Vulcain Cricket marked a great chapter in horological history. Reports from the time indicate the watch was in such demand that it created long waitlists. Businessmen, pilots, and traveling salesmen abandoned their travel clocks and traded out their watches in favor of Crickets. The model enjoyed incredible commercial success and was featured in prestigious outlets including LIFE, Esquire, and The New Yorker, in addition to many publications around the world. Today, it remains a niche and underappreciated watch.”

I have owned my fair share of Vulcain Crickets - and was even said to have initiated “the great Cricket exodus of Florida” when looking to fund my first vintage Rolex for my collection. Nevertheless, I remain firm on my passion for Crickets and would argue they were some of the greatest watches being produced in their era. While the new releases from Vulcain are hot garbage and on the verge of vomit inducing, the OG models and Jumbo references 301001 and 303001, among many others, are outstanding. Quite frankly, the 301001 and 303001 should be worth +$10,000 - and I am not just saying this because I have one. They are tremendously large and some of the best cases in the 1950s from any brand.

I said it before (to an audience of maybe 3 individuals - you know who you are and we know we are the coolest): “Collectors of oversized vintage time-only and chronograph models, such as vintage Longines, Breitling or Universal Genève collectors, often have not had the chance to see one of these rare [Jumbo} models in person, but when they do, it is not unusual to hear an audible gasp or at least eyes widening when they try it on their wrist.”

The calibre 120 is both a very reliable and important movement. It was the first commercially-produced alarm wristwatch movement, and in some of the special examples they were even certified as chronometers. Going back to the OG cases, these are also very well made models, and in some ways remind me of Gallet Clamshell chronographs. They are just compact and sturdy with thick lugs. However, the best part of these OG Crickets has to be the dials. There are a range of variants which are very high quality for the period. These include sector dials, Roman and Arabic-numeral variants, as well as multi-tone luminous variants.

9) Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Automatic Models

I’ve written about various Memovox models over the years, and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s alarm watches remain particularly special to me. I find them fascinating from both a technical and design perspective. Memovox models are often solid vintage watches with an approachable price point. I love the early mechanical models, but it is the automatic watches I tend to wear more. The iconic Memovox reference E 855, as well as the reference E 853, are two references to note. Each have similar cases, which wear very nice at 37mm in diameter. The time-only reference E 853 is particularly hard to come by in great condition, and less common to the successor E 855. The E 855 was my first vintage watch (and I’m semi-determined to have people associate it with me, just like that other guy’s Mk40 Speedy from his grandparent). A fair condition example can be $3,000-$4,000 whereas a superb example can be twice the price. Exotic dials and super rare Dunhill variants can be several times that!

A variety of JLC Memovox models from the 1950s-1960s. From left to right: Memovox reference E 855, Memovox reference E 853 in 18k yellow gold, Memovox reference 3151, another Memovox reference E 855.

Around 1970, the E 875 comes into the conversation. These are fantastic options as well. The cases are quite similar in wearability. These measure in at a diameter of 37mm, or 45.5mm length lug-to-lug. In my opinion, the benefit of owning a E 875 is primarily on the movement. I do enjoy the full-360-degree automatic movement in the calibre 916 as opposed to the “bumper” version that precedes it. Additionally, I find the alarm to be a bit brighter compared to the E 855’s off-center pillar. When you consider the solid gold examples do not command a premium, yet are much less common than steel it is pretty crazy. While I was a bit somber to sell my 875 last year, I quickly found comfort in beautiful E 855 Eric found just a few weeks later. “You deserve a great Memovox, Charlie!” Eric exclaimed offering it to me at his cost.

10) The Rolex Datejust

It all begins and ends with Rolex! The vintage Rolex Datejust is truly a classic watch. It plays to both a dressier look and maintains the reliability and performance that is quintessentially Rolex. Eric frequently tells collectors the following when considering their first Rolex: “Vintage Datejusts are grotesquely undervalued. They are almost half the price of a brand new Rolex Datejust. They can be made water resistant quite easily. You can’t go wrong with a great vintage Datejust. It is just a perfect choice and looks great on everyone.” When considering size, the 1990s have a bit more heft and sportier feel and are also more practical with the quickset movements. Once again, the variety of dials make it one of the most compelling watches to pursue.

We have been here before, but it just needs to be reiterated: The Rolex Datejust is the best of the affordable vintage watches out there. Is it my favorite watch on this list? Not necessarily! However, I would be able to argue it keeps the best value (mostly due to that coronet and the R word printed on the dial). Whether now or 50 years down the line, people will always want to wear and own a Rolex Datejust. The cases are very nice at 36mm in diameter, and they come on a bracelet! Every Rolex deserves a bracelet! You can buy a lot of those on this site if you are not already aware!

Eric has really taken a strong interest in keeping a variety of Datejusts in the office, as many clients become deeply connected to them and they offer tremendous value. As he wrote earlier this year in his article Don't Sleep On This: The Simple Vintage Rolex Datejust In Steel:

“As time has gone by, my appreciation and love for the Rolex Datejust has grown significantly. I’m constantly amazed by the quality and differentiations of the dials that Rolex used in vintage Datejusts over the decades. I have found the Rolex Datejust to be one of the most versatile watches a person can have. Whether you’re opting for the reference 1601 with a steel case and fluted white-gold bezel or the reference 1603 with the engine-turned steel bezel, they are watches which can be worn at the beach or pool, or even selectively with a tuxedo. The Rolex Datejust is certainly worthy of being in the running as the perfect one-watch collection.

The Datejust is special both because of its innovation being one of the first automatic watches with a date complication, but also due to the fact Rolex has always committed to offering the Datejust as one of the pillars of their company. Their pride in this watch is evident in the fact that every Datejust ever sold has been a certified chronometer, whereas many Submariners (such as the reference 5513) were not chronometer certified.”

Of the watches on this list, the Rolex Datejust is the most desired and tough watches. Since its introduction in 1945, the Datejust has remained a core model within the Rolex catalog and is one of the most recognized wristwatches ever made. It is truly a watch that you can wear with pride in any setting and forever - Regardless of it being a humble and “affordable” watch! Just be careful to buy one in excellent condition, like we offer on our site, as most examples we see are overpolished and in terrible condition. No one wants to wear or inherit a watch like that!

Thank you for reading and please be sure to check out the latest listings to find your next vintage watch on the homepage!