Three Unconventional Patek Philippe Timepieces

By Charlie Dunne

We have been extremely excited to discover some amazing Patek Philippe watches over the years. Some of them have been rare models while others have had exceptional provenance, and a number have had both. Here are three recent Patek Philippe finds that we are thrilled to share with our readers: a Patek Philippe reference 2517 with amazing provenance, a Patek Philippe reference 3086/79 with integrated bracelet designed for ladies, and a Patek Philippe reference 783 “Montres Golf” designed by Gilbert Albert.

Patek Philippe Reference 2517

Among the best value buys in vintage Patek Philippe are rectangular models in gold bearing the calibre 9-90. No exception is the 39.5mm x 26mm reference 2517. Produced in two versions, the present example features smooth hooded lugs, as opposed to the “grooved” or “scalloped” version seen below within the 1940s Patek Philippe catalog. This particular example has tremendous provenance by way of a beautifully-preserved case back engraving showing the story of 50 years of “loyal’ and “efficient service” to the Fox Film Corp. by the employee I.J. Schmertz. Mr. Schmertz was the Branch Manager for Fox Film Corporation in Cleveland, Ohio. The interior of the case back features the Poinçon de Maître key numbered 5, which indicates it was made by Georges Croisier, an early steel specialist who Patek enlisted for models such as the steel reference 530 in addition to many of the steel reference 130 cases. The dial features applied-gold hour markers and a hard-enamel “Patek Philippe Genéve” signature. Stamped into the calibre 9-90 movement is the U.S. import code HOX for the Henri Stern Watch Agency, the Patek Philippe agent in New York City.

Both versions of the Patek Philippe Reference 2517

Patek Philippe Reference 3086/79

One of the greatest subjects in Patek Philippe that is not discussed as much as it should be are the ladies timepieces produced during the mid-20th century. While many drift towards the radical creations from houses such as Cartier, it could be argued that Patek Philippe had some of the most creative designs over the course of the 1940s-1970s. The above wristwatch is designated as reference 3086/79. The reference 3086 family consists of several iterations, each of which defined by the numbers after the backslash. Some are concealed dials, whereas the majority, such as the present example, feature a rectangular case body and integrated bracelet. This lovely timepiece is powered by the manual wound calibre 7-70. The case is produced by R. Staffelbach & U. Rotach, a Geneva-based case specialist with the Poinçon de Maître number 15. On the back of the buckle is the long signature “Patek, Philippe & Co. / Geneve”.

The art of bracelet making is most certainly a thing of the past, and a creation like this would cost tens of thousands of dollars for a manufacturer to produce in the present day. Sadly, many of these artifacts, even from the likes of Patek Philippe, have been melted for their gold weight over the decades. We hope that with further education and scholarship on these timepieces, the remaining examples will be preserved and once again cherished. They look absolutely stunning on the wrist.

Patek Philippe Reference 783 “Montres Golf” designed by Gilbert Albert

Easily one the most important visionaries to work with Patek Philippe, Gilbert Albert is renowned for his shaped watches and design-focused approach. His tenure at the manufacturer represents brought about the most imaginative chapters within the company’s history. While most associate his works with the asymmetrical wristwatch cases, this reference 783 is one of the many undiscussed relics from the Albert portfolio. The watch is uniquely stylish and it is quite apparent when looking at certain elements, such as the segmented dial, that it was created by the designer. The watch is powered by the calibre 12-400, and the case measures 39mm in diameter and 8mm in height (including the crystal). In addition, it is a double-signed dial sold by the Lucerne-based retailer Gübelin. The case back features the Poinçon de Maître key numbered 2 indicating F. Baumgartner SA, a case specialist who produced the cases many water-resistant Calatrava wristwatches, including the legendary reference 2526. While many collectors prioritize wristwatches, this pocket watch is a treasure and an absolutely mesmerizing creation from one of the watch industry’s most talented minds.

This particular model is from the “Montres Golf” collection of three different models depicted in the advertisement (reference 782, reference 783, and reference 799) with integrated chains made for golfers to have in their pocket when playing golf. These golf watches became somewhat in vogue in the mid-20th century as golf became more popular and it became more widely-known that the impact of a swing could damage a wristwatch’s movement. The integrated chain allowed the golfer to clip it to their pocket for quick access to the time when on the course and also to ensure that it would not accidentally get lost. The “Montres Golf” watches also frequently came with a brown leather pouch, sometimes embossed with PATEK PHILIPPE in gold, but in the case of this watch embossed with GÜBELIN in gold. This reference 783 has an ornate wreath-like pattern on the chain and edge of the case that makes it particularly appealing.

This watch came from the grandson of the original owner, who was a diplomat for Iran in the 1950s and 1960s, before the Shah was deposed, and likely was a gift to him by another diplomat. To the best of our knowledge, the watch had not been opened since leaving Patek Philippe before our watchmaker opened it.