What's Selling Here 9/7/22

Rolex GMT-Master Reference 6542 “Bakelite”

The Rolex GMT-Master Reference 6542 marked the first reference in what would go onto become one of the most celebrated timepieces across all manufacturers. The timepiece become an icon within the James Bond movie Goldfinger while being worn by Honor Blackman for her portrayal of "Pussy Galore".

This reference features its original Bakelite bezel. These have a propensity for the cracks, and as a result many were replaced with non-luminous, anodized aluminum bezels.

This particular example is a world-class 6542 and in immaculate condition. The fact that it still retains its original bakelite bezel makes it incredibly special. Had I known about this watch at the time of producing the HODINKEE Reference Points article, I would have loved to been able to include this watch.

In addition to the Bakelite bezel, the dial is turning tropical with a dark brown. The case extremely crisp and is probably unpolished. It is 38mm in diameter (48mm lug-to-lug). It is paired on what is likely its original Swiss rivet bracelet with super-desirable “Big Logo” clasp and 65 end links, which are correct.

This watch features a serial number of 0.398M and dates to circa 1958. It has been in a private collection and was previously purchased from the original owner. It was recently serviced for what I believe to be the first time since leaving the factory decades back.

Heuer Camaro Reference 7220

Heuer is renowned for its rich history with automotive raving, and one of the great models from the golden age of the brand is the Camaro. The Camaro line has always been a sleeper when compared to the more discussed siblings such as the Autavia and Carrera.

The reference 7220 is powered by the manual wind calibre Valjoux 72. The case has been lightly polished and the watch is paired on a beautiful “Honey Wind” strap made by Nick Gabarro.

The watch comes does not come with box and papers.

Rolex Date “NOS” Reference 15238 In 18K Gold “Full Set”

This Rolex Date Reference 15238 is an astonishing example in 18 karat gold. This is one of the last Rolex models to feature the gold rivet bracelet which is original to the watch. It features a Z serial number circa 2006-2007.

The watch comes “full set” with box and papers and is in “new old stock” condition.

Universal Genève Aero-Compax Reference 22414 Retailed by Astrua

I’m thrilled to be offering this spectacular Universal Genève Aero-Compax reference 22414. While I am a personal fan of almost all vintage UGs, the complicated models from the 1940s are the ones that speak to me the most. Emerging during the era of aviation, the watch is designed for pilots and features an additional display within the subdial at 12 o’clock. The non-luminous dial is in fantastic condition. It does not show any signs of water ingress and has very little blemishing which is extremely uncommon for UGs from this period. The arched “Universal Genève” and “Aero-Compax” signatures are very subtle. Upon close inspection one can notice the very small signature of Astrua Torino, the retailer based out of Turin, Italy. This is one of very few double-signed UG wristwatches known to the market from this era.

The case is in spectacular condition and is unpolished. It measures 37.5mm in diameter (or 44.5mm lug-to-lug). The watch features drilled lugs. The watch is powered by the calibre 285 and the watch dates to the 1940s.

The watch is paired on a 19mm “Honey Wind” strap by Nick Gabarro. It does not come with box or papers.

Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 “Unpolished”

The Rolex GMT-Master was originally designed for Pan Am pilots in the 1950s and continues to be a flagship model for Rolex to this day.

This example features a 5.34M serial number, dating to circa 1977-1978 and features a “Mark 4” dial. The case is unpolished, and as you can see from the photos below is absolutely gorgeous on the wrist. The aluminum bezel insert is correct for the period and features a red back.

It is paired on what I believe to be the original bracelet, a Rolex 78360 bracelet with solid links and 580 end links. The bracelet is stamped “VB” for circa 1977. The tritium hands have a slightly warmer tone. Sometimes the luminous material in the hands will react and age slightly different to that on the dial. I believe the hands and dial were both born together with this watch.

To learn more about the Rolex GMT-Master you can watch the ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex GMT-Master' video and corresponding article Eric Wind produced with HODINKEE.

The watch does not come with box and papers.

Patek Philippe Reference 2452R

This rose gold Patek Philippe reference 2452 is a distinguished timepiece that dates to 1950. The case appears to be unpolished and features beautifully downturned stepped lugs. Per the Poinçon de Maître, the case appears to have been produced by Bernard Dubois & Cie (#171). The dial furniture features an Arabic numerals at 12 o’clock and dagger markers at 3, 6 and 9 and are complemented by rose gold “feuille” (leaf) hands. The hard-enamel signature is well preserved and the dial appears to be great condition. The watch is powered by the manual wind calibre 10-200.

The watch does not come with box and but does include the Extract from the Archives issued in 2018. The watch is paired on a Patek Philippe alligator strap and gold Patek Philippe buckle.

Tudor “Hybrid” Submariner Reference 94010

This an extremely rare, almost mythical, Tudor Submariner reference 94010 commonly called the “hybrid” model that was the inspiration for the current Tudor Black Bay series, with a more traditional dial with plots like a Rolex Submariner, but with the famous Tudor “Snowflake” hands. A key feature is that all of the serial numbers start with 88 on these, this one is 887’XXX. It is a close serial number to the one featured in my Four + One on HODINKEE.

The case is lightly polished, and features the correct serial range for these models. This example was most likely for a civilian, as there are no numbers on the backs of the lugs. It is in incredible condition and the dial has a great patina. The hands are original, and the crystal has been replaced with a TrueDome D19. The period correct insert has faded beautifully and is likely original to the watch.

The watch does not come with box and papers.

Gallet "Clamshell" MultiChron 30 “Unpolished”

The Gallet "Clamshell" MultiChron 30 is not only one of my favorite chronographs, but one of the best vintage watches in my eyes. I recently discussed them in Europa Star’s article ‘What is Your Horological Golden Age?’:

“I love the chronographs from the 1940s,” says Wind, “particularly those early chronographs with pump pushers instead of rectangular/square/olive pushers. The thick cases with beautiful lines, intricate dials, and handmade feel to these watches makes them my favourite pieces as a category. I have a Gallet Clamshell and Heuer reference 407 that I particularly love from the early 1940s. A grail for me would be a Patek Philippe reference 1463 Tasti Tondi chronograph in steel with Breguet numerals in original condition from the 1940s.”

The Gallet “Clamshell” is one of the spectacular innovations in creating a hermetically-sealed chronograph, and this unpolished case is a true testament to the era. The case measures 34.5mm in diameter and has 18mm lugs. The crown is a replaced example. This example dates to circa 1940

The dial does feature some wear on the surface, but it still is incredibly beautiful. At $6,900, I see this as tremendous value for those who appreciate the significance of Gallet’s history. If it were perfect, this watch would likely be sold in the $15,000 - $20,000 range.

The watch does not come with box and papers.

Rolex Submariner Reference 16800 "Full Set"

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most renowned sports watches of all time. This reference 16800 features a 8.3M serial number dating to circa 1984. The watch was sold in 1985. The case is lightly polished, but maintains its original form.

To learn more about the Rolex Submariner, read ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner’ article and corresponding video produced by Eric Wind with HODINKEE.

The watch comes “full set” with box and papers

Vulcain Cricket "Waterprotected" Reference S2325B

This Vulcain Cricket reference S2325B is one of the many great models from the 1960s and 1970s. The cases on these models are among my favorites of all Vulcain Crickets. This example is unpolished and shows its radial brushed surface. The bevels on the case are very defined and attractive to look at on the wrist. The diameter is 34.5mm and 39mm lug-to-lug.

The dial is vertically brushed and features the applied V-logo and thin “Vulcain” font which is less compact compared to the earliest models. The watch is powered by the calibre MSR S2. The watch is paired with a light blue Wind Vintage strap by Nick Gabarro. The alarm on this example is extremely loud, so I look forward to hearing the next owner’s first impression upon arrival.

Patek Philippe Ellipse Reference 3930 In Steel

This steel Patek Philippe Ellipse reference 3930 is a beautiful timepiece that represents a great chapter of design within the manufacturer’s illustrious history. While the Ellipse is less recognized as the Nautilus or Calatrava, it is most certainly alongside the two as an iconic wristwatch. The movement is powered by the quartz calibre E23C. The blue-gold dial is magnificent to admire. This watch is paired on the original leather strap, and with a steel deployant clasp.

The watch does not come with box and but does include the Certificate of Origin.

Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Perpetual Calendar Aventurine Dial

The release of Audemars Piguet’s CODE 11.59 was certainly a moment which had watch collectors polarized. However, among the initial models released, the perpetual calendar with aventurine dial stood out as the most beautiful example. The dial is absolutely stunning and complemented by the blue alligator strap. This case is unpolished and features stunning finishing that the manufacturer is known for. The watch is in mint condition and has only been worn a couple of times.

The watch comes from the original owner with box and papers.

Omega Speedmaster Professional Reference 145.022-78

The Speedmaster is, of course, one of the most iconic and important watches ever made. This particular example has the original crystal with the OMEGA symbol in the center, has the original crown and pushers, and has an unpolished case. The tritium on the dial and in the hands is a warm cream color. This watch has a case production of circa 1978.

To learn more about the Omega Speedmaster, you can see Eric Wind’s ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Omega Speedmaster’ article and corresponding video with HODINKEE.

Zenith El Primero Reference A386

Introduced in 1969, the Zenith El Primero Reference A386 sits amongst the most celebrated chronographs in watchmaking. Powered by the automatic high-beat calibre 3019, the highly emphasized red chronograph hand glides over the dial in the smoothest manner.

The model’s hands and hour markers feature a pale yellow tritium that immediately catches the attention of the wearer. Competing with the tri-colored subdials, the attributes of this watch are really a beautiful testament to the sports watches of yesteryear. 

This particular example dates to 1969, and comes on the Gay Frères steel ladder bracelet The watch is 38mm wide (with a lug-to-lug length of 45.5mm). The lug width is 19mm and the height is 12.5mm including the crystal. The case remains unpolished showing its original finishing and bevels.

The watch comes from a personal client, and includes both the box, original hang tag and an Extract from The Registers from Zenith.

Rolex Explorer II Reference 16550 "Unpolished"

This Rolex Explorer II reference 16550 a superb example and it is quite uncommon to come accross an example that remains unpolished. It is paired with its original bracelet. The dates to circa 1987.

This watch does not include box or papers.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Reference E 851

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox is one of the most important alarm wristwatch models alongside the Vulcain Cricket. The reference E 851 is a rare and early model under their water-resistant cases. This particular example dates to circa 1956. The case is unpolished and features twisted lugs. It measures 35mm in diameter, but the watch wears surprisingly large due to its 44mm length lug-to-lug length.

The non-luminous dial features some marks on the surface and the interior rotating alarm disc is unusual because it says “Wrist Alarm” and this is typically seen on the American-market Memovox watches. It is possible that it been swapped during a service, however it is period correct and the blue paint matches the blue triangles on the dial, so it is possibly original. The hour markers and hands are rose gold, provident a striking appearance on the wrist. The crowns are signed JL for Jaeger-LeCoultre and are the correct size, but possibly later. The calibre P814 movement was just serviced and the alarm sounds is wonderful.

The lug width is slightly under 17mm and it is paired on a “Honey Wind” strap made by Nick Gabarro.

To learn more about the Memovox reference E 851, you can read the full length article on Strictly Vintage Watches below:

https://www.strictlyvintagewatches.com/jaeger-lecoultre-memovox-reference-e-851

If the dial was perfect, we would value it around $5,000 or more, but we have priced it attractively.

This watch does not come with box and papers, but does include a Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives confirming production of 1956.