Trials and Triumphs: The Story of Rolex Advertisement

By Charlie Dunne

I am absolutely obsessed with vintage watch ephemera! Whether it is scanning the catalogs, collecting vintage boxes, hang tags, old buckles or bracelets, I just can’t stop obsessing over the interesting watch-adjacent materials and accessories. While it might be a bit less obvious, some of the most amazing watch-related objects to collect are vintage advertisements. Don’t get me wrong, I have some ads in folders kept away to use as backdrops for photography (or just be an oddball and take out and appreciate from time to time). However, the most enjoyable way to admire the advertisements is when they are beautifully framed by friend of Wind Vintage Nick Federowicz, or as he is known to most Ad Patina. Eric had purchased this ad from Nick and gave it to me as a gift this year - and I have to say it is one of my favorite possessions. Both Eric and my offices have a very nice collection of framed ads, and I have thought about sharing some of mine from recent years. The first one that came to mind is a very special Rolex campaign that some of you may be familiar with. For some, this might be the first impression!

The Story of Rolex is an eight-page campaign dating to the early 1960s. I will share my favorite part which is framed within my office. It is the two-page segment (pages 6-7) titled ‘Trials and Triumphs’ highlighting Rolex’s expedition themed models. These include the future icons: The Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675, the Rolex Submariner with crown guards (reference 5512/5513), and mention of the Rolex Explorer.

This particular example is dated to circa 1963. I have seen a similar print that features a different explorer - Sir John Hunt on May 26, 1953. I am relatively confident to state this version predates the main campaign by a few years. However, in this advertisement Sir Edmund Hillary’s photograph of Tenzing Norgay on the summit of Mt. Everest is featured.

May 29, 1953: Edmund Hillary took this photograph of Tenzing Norgay as they set foot on the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point on Earth. The ascent is acclaimed as the pinnacle of 20th-century athletic achievement. Image credit: achievement.org

“During the past thirty years, Rolex have equipped scores of important expeditions. The knowledge Rolex have gained from the reports on the behavior of their watches, plus the results of their own laboratory tests, has enabled Rolex to develop new and revolutionary models for special purposes

That is why Rolex watches have been to the highest point of the earth's surface, at the bottom of the deepest ocean chasm known to man, up in the stratosphere at speeds much greater than sound, in the arctic, the jungle and the desert. No other watch has such a record. Wherever men explore and experiment, their success, even their lives, will depend on their material. It is hardly surprising that they so often choose Rolex watches as part of their vital equipment.”

Rolex Oyster Perpetual "EXPLORER" watches were official equipment on the first successful Everest expedition when Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tensing were the first to conquer the world's highest peak. In the words of Sir John Hunt, leader of the expedition: "We have come to look upon Rolex watches as a vital part of high-climbing equipment."

This is easily one of my favorite watch ads of all time. The illustrations are so vibrant with tremendous colors. Part of the appeal may be due to the fact it features a “pointed crown guard” GMT-Master reference 1675, one of my favorite timepieces that was formerly in my collection. I wrote about the watch in 2023 within ‘Collector's Guide: The Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 In Steel’ and it is just a model unlike any other.

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual "GMT-MASTER" was the first of its kind ever designed. By means of its twenty-four hour hand and its revolving outer bezel, it indicates the time in any two time zones on the earth's surface. Ideal for pilots, navigators, ships' captains and intercontinental travellers. It is the Official Timepiece of Pan American World Airways.

Since selling my PCG, I have found another GMT-Master reference 1675 with the rounded crown guards! Eric helped give the endorsement when I found it and became confident enough to purchase it. Regardless of the crown-guard variant, I love this reference and taking photos of 1675s on this advertisement creates one of my favorite backdrops for visual!

In addition, the two-page spread features a super cool Rolex Submariner “Explorer Dial”! It is either a Submariner reference 5512 or a reference 5513. I am leaning towards an early 5513, as there is an absence of the red seal (hangtag) in the illustration. I particularly love the Rolex employee testing a Submariner and Deep Sea Special or “Bathyscaphe” watch that would be tested on Trieste descent! Like the GMT and Pan Am illustrations, this backdrop of green and the blue photographs at sea alongside the diver are just the coolest and vibrant themes. I can stare at this advertisement all day.

Another "first" by Rolex of Geneva -- the pacesetting Oyster Perpetual "SUBMARINER" was developed specially for deep-sea and skin divers, but thousands of others have found it the ideal watch for everyday wear. Extra robust, waterproof to 660 feet, it is a favourite with yachtsmen, fishermen, water skiers and all those fond of aquatic sports. Its revolving bezel, which was introduced as a means of measuring time elapsed under water, has commended it to all those who want a simplified stopwatch, as well as an accurate time-piece, on their wrists.

A special Rolex "OYSTER" was fitted to the outside of the bathyscaph "Trieste" when it dived to a record depth of 35,798 feet-nearly 7 miles! The Rolex was still working perfectly when the "Trieste" returned to the surface after eight hours, having withstood pressures of nearly seven tons per square inch! This unique watch is noW on permanent display at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington D.C.

As I wrote in my Collector’s Guide on the Submariner reference 5512:

When it comes to the category of dive watches, the Rolex Submariner is widely regarded as the most iconic watch. While Rolex Oyster models came before the Submariner - and the subsequent Sea-Dweller surpassed the standards/expectations of the model - it is the Submariner family which set the groundwork for most people when asked about the world’s prominent dive watch. The Submariner is undoubtedly the model that solidified the Oyster’s identity with consumers, and in turn was a major factor in the brand’s success.

Hopefully, this brief article did a decent job at showcasing how special the watch-adjacent topics can be. This framed advertisement is a super special object to me, similar to how much I value my wristwatches. If you enjoyed this article, let me know and I will work on another article of my advertisements.