What's Selling Here - January 17, 2025

By Charlie Dunne

BVLGARI Serpenti by Vacheron Constantin in 18k Yellow, Rose & White Gold Unpolished

This is a very rare and special vintage BVLGARI (Bulgari) Serpenti model by Vacheron Constantin. These vintage Serpentis are super rare and almost mythical timepieces. Very few come to market, and this example is the most attractive configurations we have seen. The bracelet is a tri-colored gold example in rose, white, and then yellow gold into the case. The watch dates to the 1970s, per the Vacheron Constantin dial signature without the ampersand. The case measures 17mm in diameter. Other Vacheron Constatin examples have less attractive head shapes and case symmetry at the tubogas bracelet.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Patek Philippe Reference 3970ER w/ Box

The Patek Philippe reference 3970 is part of the legendary family of Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs. It is the successor to the cherished reference 2499 with its origin beginning in 1986. It would be produced over the course of the following two decades and remains one of the finest timepieces made within the recent chapters of Patek Philippe’s history.

This example features a beautiful 18K rose-gold case and has a third series dial. The movement is operated through the calibre 27-70 Q (which originates through the Lemania 2310). The pump pushers are incredibly satisfying when engaging the chronograph. This watch dates to the early 2000s. The 18k rose gold case has been lightly polished, but is very attractive.

An Extract from The Archives has been ordered. The watch comes with a box. It comes with the solid case back and pin pusher. The lug width is 19mm and it comes with a Patek Philippe pin buckle in 18k rose gold on a beautiful strap. For those looking for an incredible complicated yet elegant timepiece from Patek Philippe, the reference 3970 is one of the greatest choices!

Gallet MultiChron 12 w/ Luminous Dial

Gallet has made some of the greatest chronographs of all time and the Multichron 12 is among the most special watches from the manufacturer. The steel case has been lightly polished. It measures 38mm in diameter (44mm lug-to-lug). The watch is powered by the Excelsior Park 40. It features a luminous dial and luminous hands. The hands are a different color, but we believe they contain the original lume.

It does not come with a box or papers. The service history is unknown, but it is running well.

Gallet Clamshell Chronograph Unpolished

This Gallet Clamshell chronograph is an awesome vintage watch from the 1940s. The cases on these chronographs are among my favorite designs and are the earliest waterprotected chronographs. The case appears to be unpolished and measures 34mm in diameter (42mm lug to lug). It is powered by a Venus movement. The crown is a service replacement.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Universal Genève Salmon Gilbert Albert Dial 18845-1 in 18K Rose Gold Unpolished

This Universal Genève reference 18845-1 is a very special example in 18k rose gold. The case appears to be unpolished and features a beautiful Florentine finish. The case measures 26mm in diameter (32mm lug to lug). It is paired on a very nice Hermes leather strap.

This dial configuration is often referred to by collectors as “parachute dials” and are seen on several of the Gilbert Albert models from Patek Philippe and also seen on some watches from Swiss watch fairs during the early 1960s. The painted diagonal lines can be seen in the “Montres Golf” reference 783 designed by Gilbert Albert, as well as on a special Patek Philippe reference 3423.

The manual wind movement was just serviced and is running well. It does not come with box and papers.

Gallet 24 Hour Dial Chronograph Unpolished

This Gallet chronograph is an awesome vintage watch from the 1960s. These are super attractive with the 24-hour dial. The case appears to be unpolished and measures 36mm in diameter (44mm lug to lug). It is powered by a Valjoux movement. The hands are a different color, but we believe they contain the original lume. For those looking for an awesome Gallet chronograph, this is a great option.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Breitling Tillhör Televerket Long Playing Chronograph Unpolished

This Bretling reference 810 is a super cool example that features a Tillhör Televerket dial which was given as equipment to the Swedish telecommunication company. The watch dates to the 1960s. The case appears to be unpolished. It measures 38mm in diameter. The dial is phenomenal. For those looking for a rare and killer chronograph, this is a great option!

The watch does not come with box and papers. It was recently serviced and is running well.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm Reference 1018 Unpolished

We’re thrilled to offer this awesome Rolex reference 1018 which formerly belonged in Eric’s personal collection. The reference 1018 is a rare and oversized Oyster Perpetual model which measures 36mm (43mm lug-to-lug). The 1018 was a reference that was not mass-produced and as a result of its narrow font has become an exciting Oyster Perpetual model for collectors who appreciate minimal and balanced dials. Oftentimes, the reference 1018 will show signs of water ingress or feature service dials. This example features a beautiful silver soliel dial which is similar to the silver dials of Rolex Big Red Daytona 6263s. This example dates to 1966 with a 1.45M serial. The case appears to be unpolished and the watch is paired on a fantastic period correct 7206 bracelet with 58 end links dating to the 4th quarter of 1966 (which I would value at $4,000).

To learn more about the Rolex reference 1018, read Charlie Dunne’s article ‘Collector's Guide: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 1018’.

It recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar. The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well and keeping good time.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 5000 0130 Full Set

This Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape is in exceptional condition. The ceramic case measures 42mm in diameter. It is a great jet-black watch for any stealthy situations or just having fun in the water.

It comes from the original owner and comes with box and papers who bought it in 2020. We do not know the service history but it is running well.

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional 145.012-67 Unpolished

This OMEGA Speedmaster Professional reference 145.012-67 is a very cool example. The case appears to be unpolished and measures at 42mm. It is powered by a manual wind movement calibre 321. It is paired on a newer Forstner bracelet which looks very cool. The crown is original.

To learn more about the Omega Speedmaster, see the ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Omega Speedmaster’ article and corresponding video.

The watch does not come with box and papers. The watch was recently serviced and it is running well.

Gallet Flying Officer Chronograph Unpolished

This Gallet Clamshell chronograph is an awesome vintage watch from the 1960s. The cases on these chronographs are incredibly cool chronographs. The case appears to be unpolished and measures 36mm in diameter (45mm lug to lug).

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Enicar Mk 3 Sherpa Graph Reference 072-02-01 Unpolished

The Enicar Sherpa Graph models are extremely desirable for collectors and very difficult to find. The present watch is a fantastic example with the case made by E. Piquerez SA (also called EPSA). Enicar was way ahead of other companies with the white registers against a dark blue dial and a large 40mm diameter case with a tachymeter scale. The case appears to be unpolished.

It is a “Mark III” / “Mark 3” model with reference 072-02-01 on the case back. It features the original signed Compressor crown with the Saturn logo, while the earliest examples have no logo.

If you are looking for a large alternative cool sports chronograph , this is really is such a watch!

This watch does not include box or papers, has a manual-wind movement (Caliber 72 made by Valjoux), and is 40mm in diameter. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Girard-Perregaux Playboy Reference 9034 Unpolished

The Girard-Perregaux reference 9034 is a super cool model and one of the nicest examples I have seen. It is often referred to at the “Playboy” for its feature in the publication. The case appears to be unpolished. It measures 34.5mm in diameter.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

LeCoultre w/ Fancy Lugs in 14K Yellow Gold Unpolished

This is one of the nicest vintage American-market LeCoultre models. The case appears to be unpolished. It measures 30.5mm in diameter or 39mm lug-to-lug. The case was produced by DiVincenzo & Arienti. The inlaid material within the lugs appears to be enamel. The dial is very intricate and appears to be made from Stern Freres. It is very similar to the dials found in Markowski Patek Philippe models and numerals are very similar to those found on Padellone models.

The Extract from the Archives mentions the "model [was] intended exclusively for the U.S. market" and that the production date is 1953.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Movado Ermeto Chronometer w/ Asprey London Box

The Movado Ermeto “purse watch” is one of the coolest horological accessories. These watches are super interesting and have some great variations in both material on the sterling silver cases, as well as dial variants and complications. This example is a fantastic example with Shagreen case decoration. The watch dates to the 1940s. It comes with an incredible and rare presentation box from Asprey - a prestigious London retailer.

It does not come with papers. It does come with box. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.

Rolex Black Dial Air-King Reference 14000 Unpolished

This Rolex Air-King reference 14000 is a superb example with a black dial. The watch features a N serial number and dates to circa 1991. It is an early example with holes on the lug profile and T Swiss Made T dial (with later ones having “Swiss Made”. Also, the “Precision” font is slightly different. The case appears to be unpolished. This Air-King is an awesome wristwatch for both casual and formal attire.

We do not know the service history, but it is keeping excellent time It does not come with box and papers. It has just recently passed a water resistance test of 5 bar.

Heuer “Derek Bell” Autavia Reference 1163 Unpolished

This Heuer Autavia reference 1163 is a great watch. It is in outstanding condition. The case appears to be unpolished. This has an MH “Minutes and Hours” bezel that is original to the watch. It is paired on an early Gay Frères beads of rice bracelet with correct early HLD end links. It has an automatic movement (Caliber 11 made by Heuer-Léonidas), and is 42mm in diameter. The serial places it in the 225,XXX range.

We do not know the service history, but it is running well. This watch does not include the original box and papers.

Hublot Big Bang MECA-10 Ceramic Blue St. Barth Limited Edition Full Set

This Hublot Big Bang in blue ceramic is a super cool sports watch and a very limited edition of 25 examples for Saint Barthélemy! The watch is in exceptional condition. It measures 45mm in diameter. The retail price was $25,000, so this is the deal of a lifetime for a Hublot collector! Once your friends see you in this, they will be forced to worship you.

It comes from the original owner and comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history but it is running well.

Heuer Yacht-Timer Wrist Stopwatch

This Heuer Yacht-Timer wrist stopwatch is an insanely fun timepiece with multi-colored dial. The stopwatch is deigned for timing yacht races or and nautical sports.

It does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.