What's Selling Here - September 6, 2024

By Charlie Dunne

Patek Philippe "Dorè" Dial Reference 3940J Unpolished & Extract

This Patek Philippe reference 3940 in yellow gold is a rare and uncommon model from the early period of the amazing reference 3940. Whereas the earliest examples of the Patek Philippe reference 3940 only had a solid case back. This example for sale dates to 1985. Starting in the early 1990s, Patek Philippe made the 3940 models with both exhibition and solid case backs except for the platinum model, which only had a solid case back for the entirety of its run.

The references 3940 is arguably the most elegant Patek Philippe watches made over the last 40 years. The watch is powered by the self-winding calibre 240Q with microrotor, which when released was the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar movement available. The case is 36mm, and it comes on tan strap. We believe the case remains unpolished. The watch shows little wear and features crisp hallmarks, which is extremely rare for reference 3940s. The dial is a very beautiful "dorè" dial.

The watch comes with an Extract from the Archives indicating a production of 1985, as well as a Patek Philippe winding box.

OMEGA Speedmaster Reference 2998-2 Tropical Dial Unpolished

It is no secret that I love vintage OMEGA Speedmasters. This particular reference 2998-2 is one of the nicest 2998s I have seen. It came from the family of the original owner. We believe the case is unpolished. It features the original bezel and crown.

It is powered by the manual-wind movement (Caliber 321 made by Lemania), and is 39.5mm in diameter. This is a watch that should be in the OMEGA museum and would be a great addition to any serious collection.

To learn more about the Omega Speedmaster, you can read my ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Omega Speedmaster’ article and corresponding video with HODINKEE.

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. It is a super attractive example that I would be elated to have in my personal collection.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 5402ST A Series Unpolished

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is an icon. It is the original luxury sports watch that created and defined the category. Introduced at BaselWorld in 1972 after being designed by Gérald Genta, it turned the Swiss industry upside down and changed the fortunes of the struggling Audemars Piguet. It’s no surprise, that Patek Philippe hired Gerald Genta a few years later to introduce their own version of a steel luxury sports watch: the Nautilus.

The origin of the species is the Royal Oak reference 5402ST - nicknamed the “Jumbo”. It is no surprise that the A series examples are hotly hunted and desired by collectors around the world.

The bluish-grey tapisserie dial is in excellent condition, which is uncommon for these. Often these early dials can have an uneven and sometimes unattractive patina. The watch should fit a wrist up slightly over 7 inches and features the original flip “Audemars Piguet” flip clasp (often replaced with the AP flip clasp) with the Gay Freres “GF” logo. The case measures 39mm in diameter (48mm lug to lug) and this is the original “Jumbo”. We believe the case and bracelet are unpolished.

This watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well. For those hunting for a piece of history, this is your chance.

Rolex Zenith Daytona Reference 16520 W/ Black Dial Unpolished

This is an outstanding example of a black dial Rolex Daytona reference 16520. It has a U9 serial dating it to circa 1998. The “Zenith Daytonas” have appreciated significantly the last few years as people respect the modified Zenith El Primero movements that Rolex used for their first automatic Daytonas starting in 1988. We believe the case is unpolished. It measures 40mm in diameter (46mm lug-to-lug).

This watch does not include the original box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great!

Rolex Day-Date "Spanish" Reference 18238 in 18K Yellow Gold Unpolished Full Set

This Rolex Day-Date reference 18238 is a super nice watch in outstanding condition. It has an an 18K yellow gold case. We believe the case is unpolished. It features a Spanish calendar and an incredibly attractive champagne dial. It features an E serial, made in 1990 and originally sold in Spain in 1992.

The watch comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history of this watch, but it is running well.

Rolex Day-Date 40 Diamond Bezel Baguette Dial 228348RBR Full Set Like New

When you wear a Rolex, everyone respects you. When you wear a Day-Date, everyone remembers you. When you wear the Rolex Day-Date 40 reference 228348RBR with diamond bezel and baguette set indices, everyone worships you.

Diamond-set Rolex models are incredibly beautiful and the nicest stones/settings in any watch manufacturer. This 228348RBR is a very attractive and elegant model which is amazing on the wrist. The black dial and contrasting 18K yellow gold case make for a very luxurious look. The case measures 40mm in diameter.

The watch comes with box and papers from the original owner. It was worn 3-4 times. and is in outstanding condition. When your enemies notice this watch on your wrist, they will bow before you.

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Reference 105.012-66 CB Case Unpolished Full Set

The OMEGA Speedmaster was introduced in 1957, initially created for drivers in automotive racing. However, it would reach iconic status by eventually reaching spaceflight qualification by NASA amongst several of the highest grade chronographs of its era. This is an outstanding OMEGA Speedmaster reference 105.012-65 is a classic vintage model and could be a perfect timepiece for just about any watch collector.

The reference 105.012 were first Speedmaster with crown and pusher guards, garnering the “Professional” name on the dial for the case upgrade. It features a stepped dial, and an applied OMEGA logo.

It is powered by the highly admired calibre 321, which was recently re-released to excitement of many Speedy lovers. The reference 105.012 was the first asymmetrical case to be released in the Speedmaster line throughout 1963-1966.

The case was made by CB (le Centrale Boites), and it is unpolished with its original crown, which is uncommon as most were replaced during service. The watch phenomenal condition and remains unpolished. The dimensions are 42mm in diameter with a lug width of 20mm.

To learn more about the OMEGA Speedmaster, you can watch ‘Reference Points: Understanding The Entire Lineage Of The OMEGA Speedmaster’ video I made with Ben Clymer in 2015 (and corresponding article)

The watch comes with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running great!

It comes with a copy of the Extract from the Archives as the original was misplaced.

Heuer Carrera "Panda" Reference 2447SN on Gay Freres Bracelet Unpolished

The Heuer Carrera is one of the legendary chronograph designs of the 20th century. Featuring stark angled lugs that were a product of the architecture of the 1960s, the present watch is notable for its unpolished case and white clean dial. Finding Carreras from the 1960s with great condition is extremely difficult.

This watch is heralded by collector Jeff Stein as the "Holy Grail" of the Carreras. The second execution of the Carreras introduced a white dial with black registers in the reference 2447SN circa 1968/69. It is paired on a “double grain” bracelet by Gay Frères. The watch is powered by the manual calibre 72 made by Valjoux.

You can read more about the origins of the Carrera in the in-depth article that I wrote for HODINKEE back in 2013:

The watch does not come with box and papers. We do not know the service history, but it is running well.